TeamSwift

I recently purchased a AMR500 supercharger for my G10 that I installed in my Joyner SandViper DuneBuggy. I have installed the charger and with great results , it get 11lbs of boost with the stock pulley on the engine and the stock pulley that came on the charger. My pictures wont load on this site because of their size so here is a link to what I have done to make this work.

http://buggynews.com/supercharging-the- ... 47591.html

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3675ktw9MCg

Very nice work......Look forward to reading more........

Cool! I wonder how the stock internals will hold up at 11 psi. With power to weight ratio it will be interesting to see how it effects longevity. Most people have not run 11 psi of boost successfully long term on a g10 with stock internals. With the carb setup what are your AFR?

The AFR stays close to the rich side always , dips down into lean conditions upon accelerations then returns to a richer AFR. that is according to my autometer pro-comp AFR gauge.

Are you sure it's tht hard to run 11 psi successfully? I've had a few over the years that were set around 10psi for most of their life with no issues. With a carb and slightly rich mixture I think it'll be a happy motor. Carbs seem like they tend to run richer which in this case will help the engine

_________________
1995 Swift w/16V 4.39s, 3tech cam, Esteem t-body, Header, needs more.
1995 Gt Mustang "Boss Shinoda" package.
1999 F150 4x4 Supercharged
1967 Mustang 428 auto, never ending expensive project
1993 Civic si h22a, fell in my lap, couldn't resist!

That boost level on an otherwise stock G10 is cake. As long as you fuel and time it right, it will last forever. Aim for at least 12-1 AFR under boost.

_________________
Contact 3tech: [email protected]

It really depends on how much increase in cfm of air flow. One supercharger or turbo to the next is definitely not the same thing. I'm am no expert on a G10. Fueling and timing are always going to be critical. I have read a few stories that were not success stories on stock internals. I can't imagine your talking about anything over 170 cfm.

And likewise, boost and airflow are determined by your build. You're flowing a shitload more air in a boosted G10 with a performance cam, than with the stock one. I can almost guarantee that these unsuccessful builds were due to improper tuning. 170 CFM? We've run T3 turbos at 20 psi on these motors with enough cam to run 9000 RPM, on stock rods and pistons. Seriously, these motors are STOUT.

_________________
Contact 3tech: [email protected]

Those AMR500 supercharger's go for around $300 used, delivered on ebay. With some custom plumbing and fabrication, seems a healthy G10 would become a wild ride for perhaps a little over a grand? All for less than a 13b or 13bb conversion.
If anyone does it, I'd like to see the problems/difficulties and then end results. Anything special need to be done to a healthy factory built G10?
Would a typical 5 speed live very long?
Seriously nice upgrade!!

_________________
'91 Metro 3 cyl. 'vert. 5 speed beater, built as a fun daily driver.
'92 Metro 3 cyl. 'vert. Auto, all factory clean.
'92 Metro 3 cyl. 'vert. 5 speed beater back up.
'91 'vert with factory 160 hp 13B two rotor, Very clean RX-7.

Nothing, but you would want to pur a performance cam in it. Boosting on a stock cam is an act of silliness.

_________________
Contact 3tech: [email protected]

170 cfm is about 110 hp. A Garrett t3 60 at 20 psi given an adequate exhaust and cooling system on G10 would flow around 325 cfm (215 hp). At 9000 rpm with some of your cam configurations you could be pushing 450 cfm or 300 hp. I'm not saying it can't be done on a stock G10, but I would want some extra insurance; standalone engine management (MS), arp head studs or aftermarket bolts (I know you sell them), G13B rods and wrist pins, EFI with multi-port injection, oil cooler, a properly sized fmic, 300 to 400 cc injectors, a Walbro 250 fuel pump. I know you said only stock rods and pistons so I am assuming these things above are all included in the fueling and timing system.

When you say T3 are you talking T3 turbo cars or the t3 exhaust flange? Are you then talking stock t3 pistons and rocker?

I know you know your stuff, and I appreciate the services and advice you provide to this community. I don't want it to sound like I'm trying to pick an argument. I just wouldn't say those things above are stock because I think of everything that only comes with a Geo Metro G10.

Garret T3. I estimated that we were making in the 200 HP range.

I've seen people use the stock G10 long block, with 9.5-1 compression, very long term at 10-15 PSI, even with scabby home made extra injectors, and hokey fuel management like the CTS mod. I think there's at least one member here that used a stock long block with factory turbo 3 head/intake and turbo quite successfully.

_________________
Contact 3tech: [email protected]

The buggy actually is getting about 13lbs of boost while it is under a load , driving it . very good power and low end torque. Feels like twice the power that it had before .I am going to use a smaller bottom pulley to decrease the boost and change the cam. I am using an adjustable cam sprocket and I advanced the cam 2 degrees at a time and the bottom end power is incredible in comparison to stock timing. my next plan is to remove the engine for a rebuild. Does anyone know what the stock rod length is? I am going to use 75mm Honda d16 forged turbo pistons and would like to find an aftermarket h beam rod.

A stock Swift GT/T3 rod is overkill for what you're doing, and the pin diameter is the same as the D16. You're good for 250 hp all day long with those rods, and you're not making half that.

Don't change the pulley until you do the cam. The boost will drop if/when you put a performance cam in it.

_________________
Contact 3tech: [email protected]

Superfly what is your recommendation for one of your cams ? I want all the low end that I can get , my buggy is used mostly in slow moving technical type terrain (mud,hills rocky).

wow, I come here lurking the recent posts after a fellow member pm'ed me, and I see this..... ahh the good memories.... 26psi 9500rpm stock bottom end daily driver I miss you lol

Seriously mr Roushvert, you won't believe what a camshaft from suprf1y will do to your engine. I would suggest you grab or make yourself a nice adjustable cam sprocket to compliment your new camshaft. this way you can shift the power band a bit lower in rpm range.

_________________
Suzuki Gold Master Tech
'07 Suzuki SX4 JLX AWD 2.0 | Turbine Tech turbo kit @ 7psi
'08 Suzuki SX4 Sport 2.0 , average baby carrier

it's great to see you pop back up, my friend.

_________________
1991 Blue Geo Metro Convertible highly modified 1.0L Turbo3 5 spd. - 1991 Red Geo Metro Convertible customized with a Twincam 5 spd.

My Turbo3 Project
My Cardomain Page -Ol' Blue
My YouTube Channel
My Photo Gallery
SAAB Sonett II

Ate you running it with a ems?

_________________
1994 Suzuki Swift GA SOHC. 4/5
Vogtland lowering coils
Ngk plugs
8mm silicon wires.

My parts collection has started and I am almost at the point of assembling the short block . I have acquired the connecting rods and pistons , adjustable timing gear , topline gasket set , aisin oil pump for a g13 , and I might go another way and use the later model pump with the sensor in the pump housing as well as the oil pan for future and probable use of a megasquirt to fuel and manage timing. next is to hit up Mike for a 3 tech head and cam , just a bit more time and it will all come together!!

personally, the trigger wheel and v/r sensor from the g10 isn't all that handy for a megasquirt engine management system. i used a 36-1 trigger wheel concentrically indexed to a 4" aluminum crank pulley for much improved timing resolution.

if you want to go sequential injection you'll need a cam angle sensor, too. take a look at my blue monster turbo thread for pics of my solution.

_________________
1991 Blue Geo Metro Convertible highly modified 1.0L Turbo3 5 spd. - 1991 Red Geo Metro Convertible customized with a Twincam 5 spd.

My Turbo3 Project
My Cardomain Page -Ol' Blue
My YouTube Channel
My Photo Gallery
SAAB Sonett II

the trigger from a 98+ 1.3L works fine with MS2_extra (I found a bug in the source code back in the day, jsmcortina from msextra.com fixed it.), but the oil pump that comes with it sucks. keep the turbo / G13B oil pump. custom trigger wheel is the way to go. I used a stock crank pully which we machined 36 teeth from, and used 36-1 + 1 cam tooth (modified dizzy) for sequential fuel/spark in the early alpha phase of sequential support for MS2. fun times.

that rod.... lol that's way overkill! if you break one of those you deserve a trophy!

_________________
Suzuki Gold Master Tech
'07 Suzuki SX4 JLX AWD 2.0 | Turbine Tech turbo kit @ 7psi
'08 Suzuki SX4 Sport 2.0 , average baby carrier

yeah well... I still lurk sometimes, but not driving any Suzuki anymore drags me away from car forums generally speaking. I dream of having spare space to keep a specimen or 2 of these great cars. I had fun building the T3 swift, and driving the turboed SX4 was a blast. I just don't have the space to keep one around.

_________________
Suzuki Gold Master Tech
'07 Suzuki SX4 JLX AWD 2.0 | Turbine Tech turbo kit @ 7psi
'08 Suzuki SX4 Sport 2.0 , average baby carrier

I ditched the carb for the EFI . I am using a waldbro 255 fuel pump with a boost referenced fuel pressure regulator . I am testing this whole setup on a "consumable" junkyard engine. I am not using the stock regulator in the throttle body.

I'd like to try one in a Metro but think it might stick quite a ways out of the hood.


Ken.........

After I get this all done and running good , I am going to do the charger on a 94 metro that I have. it will only come thru on the passenger side , probably look really cool . I got the metro for a little or nothing and its in real good shape and a brand new set of bilstien struts for a swift gti and a set of 14 inch wheels , so why not ?