TeamSwift

Dream on, the current delivery is astounding, when it's cold, starting the car internally warms the cells so they deliver more current not less like lead acid the more times you try to crank.

Yes LiPo batteries make great fire starters but only if you exceed discharge and charging rates which is pretty hard to do with an alternator that puts out a voltage only slightly higher than a 14 volt Lipo pack.

Not so, Richie. The output from those batteries is amazing. They're certainly not ideal for winter, but it's a fair tradeoff based on the weight savings.
One of my riding buddies uses one about the size of 4 C cells in his DRZ 400. It cost him less than a stock replacement, always starts the bike, and weighs 275 grams, about 2/3 of a pound.

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this is a very interesting post. I am always up for shedding weight in my racecar

My track car has so much electronics its unreal - LOL
- electrical hydra power steering (90A),
- 4 LS1 coils,
- Full EFI w/ 2 fuel pump (30A)
- AIM dash
- Altenator charges at 14.1 (95A)
- Also now going 13:1CR

Based on the above what size LiPo batter pack would you recommend.

Crap... Where's the Tardis??? Derek, make me up a battery will ya?

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Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car.HP is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how much you push the wall out.

Sure Lin, as soon as you find me all those megasquirt parts scattered around your house

Actually I sold the partial kit so don't worry.

MF89 probably the 4.6 or 6.9 AH packs which are configured as 4s2p or 4s3p, make sure you have an underdrive pully though, in fact every race car needs one to prevent overcharging and slow down your water pump.

Why do you have 3 fuel pumps or is one a reserve for endurance racing?

It actually only 2 fuel pumps. That was a typo, sorry. Underdrive pull checked

suprf1y/Dattman or someone else who can answer. Any issues with the LiFePO4 packs with a smaller guage wire set?

I noticed the battery packs from omgod on ebay seem to use 8 guage while you appear to have used 0 guage on your dewalt pack.

Presume battery is OK in engine bay near starter with 8 guage but how about in cabin with that guage?

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ET 13.138 at 120.2mph

Ideally you want to keep those small leads as short as possible to minimise voltage drop, if mounting in the cabin then it should be as close as possible to your battery isolate switch, then run a thicker wire into the engine bay to either a 'hotpoint' or to the back of the starter motor if have wired to suit.

The quick connector is nice but not sure if I trust it for prolonged starting capacity, I think it's rated for 50ah.

cheers Dattman, will not be using the quick connect anyway.

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ET 13.138 at 120.2mph

Just a follow up.
I've been running the 4 cell (2.3 AH) "RC battery" in my KLX 250 for the riding season.
It turns the motor over faster than the original lead acid battery, and provides plenty of reserve cranking amps.
Because it worked so well, I ordered the 6.9 AH for the GT, and will try it in the next few days.
There is a 30 lb difference between the stock, and lightweight batteries.

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I'm super happy with my Braille battery.
I saved about 30lbs over the Optima I was running,
and it's about the same price new.


I looked at a few other models from Braille
and read up on their website.
I could have gone lighter, but thought this
was the best compromise suitable for a daily
driver. Plenty of power for my needs, I've been
running it a couple months now.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_rdcZ1QQitemZ310318084786QQruZhttpQ3aQ2fQ2fwwwQ2eebayQ2ecomQ3a80Q2fschQ2fiQ2ehtmlQ3fQ5ffromQ3dR40Q26Q5ftrksidQ3dp3984Q2em570Q2el1313Q26Q5fnkwQ3d310318084786Q26Q5fsacatQ3dSeeQ2dAllQ2dCategoriesQ26Q5ffviQ3d1

Not bad, but still 15 lbs. The biggest Lithium ion are 2.

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I think the 6.9 would be the best for most people, my 4.6ah battery has been fantasic, even after the car has been sitting for months this battery always starts the car, even when it's really cold, just a couple of quick attempts at starting and the battery is warm enough to deliver full current and my car has no cold start functions at all with quads.
I love the fact that the battery doesn't self discharge like Lead based batteries.

Don't forget there's extra weight that can be saved in wiring by locating the battery more centrally and a lighter mounting system due to the reduced size and sub 2lb weight, pound for pound I think it's one of the best performance mods available.

Sure get some funny looks with my 'dewalt 36v' battery though

The Turntech guy recommended his 5.0, but the Chinese 6.9 was similar in price, and we do get some cool weather here in the spring and fall, so I went with a little margin. I'll put it in today.

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Contact 3tech: [email protected]

i'm watching you.

could one use the lithium ion conversion battery mounted in the original battery position? other than cold, is the ambient temperature a problem? the factory position right behind the radiator isn't exactly the coolest spot.

after i get done grinding up starters trying to get the megasquirt dialed in i might build one of these to replace my big honkin' optima red top.

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1991 Blue Geo Metro Convertible highly modified 1.0L Turbo3 5 spd. - 1991 Red Geo Metro Convertible customized with a Twincam 5 spd.

My Turbo3 Project
My Cardomain Page -Ol' Blue
My YouTube Channel
My Photo Gallery
SAAB Sonett II

Nope haven't been on here for a while and that's all gone way above my head .

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Drive with commitment or bloody go home!

Stock position should be fine. If I recall, max temp is 70C. Shouldn't be a problem. I haven't found the time to install mine yet.

_________________
Contact 3tech: [email protected]

Know what this is?

It's perspective.

Battery is in, and working fine.

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Contact 3tech: [email protected]

I installed my 6.9Ah battery today (same as yours suprf1y). We did a temporary install while car is on the dyno (sitting in passanger footwell). My tuner is loving it. He has turned the car on and off a few times and cant believe it just keeps starting the car first time without hesitation. Fantastic little batteries!

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ET 13.138 at 120.2mph

Suprf1y, do you have a link to purchase that battery?

What is the price for this battery and who sells them ?

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G13B 1.3L 16v 115hp

You guys should read the first page of the thread

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/A123-battery-4s3 ... 3499wt_907

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Contact 3tech: [email protected]

news flash! racing battery translates in chinese search engine to buy my plagiarized art!

_________________
1991 Blue Geo Metro Convertible highly modified 1.0L Turbo3 5 spd. - 1991 Red Geo Metro Convertible customized with a Twincam 5 spd.

My Turbo3 Project
My Cardomain Page -Ol' Blue
My YouTube Channel
My Photo Gallery
SAAB Sonett II

You're messin with us - that link wasn't posted before on the 1st page
(Psych!)



Well your first problem is using the big heavy lead terminal connectors to begin with,
you know those aren't factory issue.



Where do you connect the jumper cables when it fails?



Jeez, 2lbs huh? Epic. Just might have to get me one of those firestarters.

Give us an update after dishing out some abuse, looks like it's on more of a daily
driven scoot than a full out racer, give it a good workout and let us know how it
holds out.

It is a daily driver.
I don't expect it to fail, but thought about that possibility. Notice the ground lug on the - side, and under the fire sleeve on the + side is the same thing. Need a boost, just pull it back, and connect the cables.

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