i used non-rusted floor sections from a later model range hatchback for most of my last restoration project. i bent and hammered smaller areas like quarter sized holes from 24 gauge galvanized steel.


the tricky bits on a vert come from the shape of the angled inner rocker, the inner rockers of a hatchback are at a 90 degree angle with the floor pan.
on a vert you will notice that the channel in the floor pan that runs fore and aft along the rocker structure has rusted away. i have a local shop bend pieces that support the floor pan, welded to the pan and then to the original pinch weld location on the rocker tube assembly. i get them 57" long with a profile that looks like " l___/ " and trim them to length as i tack them up. i do full length stitch welds tying the 11 gauge channels to the rocker and floor pan. that gives you excellent strength, support for the floor pan, rust resistance, and it also stiffens the rocker assembly up to reduce chassis flex.

if i did another resto-rod car i would add a cross member that tied the channels on each side making an H shape. i think that tying the channels together would reduce cross body flex, assisting the upper cowl stiffener on the vert's tub.
the nice thing about using the metro floor pans is that once you are done and the under coating is applied, you can hardly tell the repair was made.
i used eastman company brushable seam sealer and rust encapsulator to slow down the rust and then covered the floor with fatmat which keep water from laying against the steel. my operating theory being that verts leak, can't stop 'em. the fatmat is impervious to water so it acts like a bath tub and keeps the water in a little puddle in the corner that i can suck out with a shop vac after a hard rain storm.
