I'll let you all in on a little known information about me and my audio experience. I have made my living over the past 15+ years in the pro audio field. I currently mix on audio consoles that cost more than most cars on this site and speaker systems that cost more than the sum of most personal collections of cars on this site. I actually own a portable RTA and impedance meter (not an app).
That being said some of you may need to ween off the caffeine and reread the beginning of this thread. Thought the $3 salvage yard speakers / mad scientist comment would have set the tone of the project. By the way due to lack of "Fun-ds" and my 1800w sub amp blowing this project is on hold.
Loved the "compensating for something" comment, all though not very original and was actually an oxymoron coming from person who seems to have some kind of multi-car owning fetish they can't control. (I hope you know I am just having fun here).
Yes point source may be the best coherent sound but try to hit every seat with; the same volume level, same frequency response (20Hz-20kHz), with out using a crossovers, what about stereo imaging, let's not forget surround sound (or maybe your head unit doesn't do that), and in a car (convertible)?
Time alignment is also wonderful providing that you have a unit that has multiple adjustable outputs. We have those units in pro sound but not so much in car audio. Of course you would not purchase one of those cheap unit that don't compensate for temperature and humidity. Nay don't forget to purchase you measuring equipment/system and that $1K Earthworks measurement mic.
Glass is has one of the worst acoustical properties. Not only dose reflect the original sound but also vibrates putting off its own refection. I haven't heard of anyone ever putting sound absorbing mat on their windows.
Need I go on? Using you best Bone's (Dr McCoy - Star Trek) voice here - "For God's sakes Jim - I'm a doctor - that's a convertible metro!"
Keep the top down and the music (ain't noise pollution) up - hope you do the same.