incorrigible wrote:
I did look for this, did a search for timing as well for the better part of half an hour but never came up with timing tutorial to speak of. I don't imagine you have a link you wish to share by any chance?
the timing tutorial that i specifically had in mind was written up by jv&s. it had step by step pics and was easy to understand. i wasn't trying to be a jerk or anything.
i also poked around for it and to be sure, i couldn't find it, either, so i can't hook you up with the link. as a matter of fact, the search button was pretty weak. that's the way things go, a good reference is usually a response to a question and it ends up be fairly hard to search for.
in essence, you have to jump the diagnostic connector (pic for your car should be on the decal on the bottom of the hood.) that locks the ecu mapping for advance out. the decal will also give you the engine rpm for the adjustment. you use a timing light referenced to the number 1 spark plug lead to illuminate the notch in the crank pulley. it should appear to "freeze" somewhere next to the timing reference marks cast into the timing belt cover. you rotate the distributor in it's mount with those bolts loosened until the strobed mark looks like it's next to the fixed scale on the timing belt cover indicating the proper timing.
regardless of what the book says for timing, we all pretty much push the timing advance until the engine pings under acceleration. then we back it up until it stops pinging. timing will be slightly different for each engine but it will probably be in the 8 to 12 degree btdc range.
when you pull the jumper wire out of the diagnostics plug, you might have an overall advance of maybe as high as 30 degrees, so far off the scale on the timing cover that you can't read it with a timing light. you absolutely have to install the jumper to do it right.
if your engine is rattling like a diesel, it's imperative that you correct the timing before you drive the car. it doesn't sound like much, but pinging beats the hell out of the connecting rods and pistons. something will break and it won't be fun to fix.
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. I wonder if this could be effecting how I don't seem to be getting much heat, and its only fall. Another ghost to chase...
I could post the dimensions but essentially it was from the existing seat belt upper mounting point bolt to bolt, bent back far enough to clear the seat backs, high enough to clear the swiveling side bonnet covers and low enough so as not to impede the rear view mirror view and still keep it inside the roof top while it folds and is in position. It was all eyeballed with no measurements. The hoops were an afterthought as the initial intent was just to provide a mounting point for the seatbelts. As for making more... 
bwahahahha... it took me the better part of 4 years to get this far and my wife wants the garage back 
, looks VERY professional. Love the paint (from the pics at least) too, I caught a hint of the pearl along the drivers door in that second one.
) So far the paint has been the most expensive part at about $400 for materials plus the booth rental, the car itself was only about $200 as I recall 
