TeamSwift

just wandering if someone here can point me in right direction to diagnose problem,car starts easily but wont accelerate under a load,its missing and im smelling gas? I changed plugs,plug wires,and air cleaner.but did not help, there is a small hole forming in muffler,but don't know if this would have such a big effect on power? thanks in advance for any help.george ps.forgot to say there are no check engine lights on.

Best thing I'd suggest to do, is get a vacuum/boost gage and hook it up. One tiny crack in any of the hoses and/or an air leak through the oil cap or dipstick can do what you describe. Harbor-freight has em for less then $20. You can also look/listen for vacuum leaks and check the routing of hoses for correctness. A compression check to rule out a worn engine wouldn't hurt either.

yep, THANK YOU!!!! loose oil cap and crooked dip stick.It cured about 75% of problem,runs much better,just wont rev past 4000 rpm it boggs down on hills. guess I need to keep looking.

If 25% of the problem is still there at idle parked go around the engine bay and spray a little starter fluid on vaccume lines around the tb and intake tubes ect.. If your pulling vaccume and have a leak you'll hear the rpm raise. Once you find a spot do another light spray and reassure that is the spot it ought to narrow your search to a 2-3 inch area. Make sure youre running the proper gap(look on the tag under the hood) and a good quality set of copper plugs preferable v type.

If it's been sitting for a while or has been driven for many years without a rebuild sea foam it. Some in the tank some in the case and get a small valve from the plumbing section at the hardware store and suck some through the brake booster line. Little by little through the booster or you could hydrolock your engine. Also it wouldn't hurt to have your o2 sensor out during this as it could damage it and watch your CAT's I've seen them just about catch a car on fire while seafoaming through a vaccume line.

Probably not your issue but I've had that happen on my turbo car when I first bought it when I had a huge exaust restriction make sure your exaust isn't smashed or have a mouse inhabiting it. Also an idea check that your fender isn't packed full of pine needles as this is where our cars get intake air from.

Have you tested your coil recently? Aftermarket coils are cheap find a blaster 2 coil on sale at the parts store and it should be under 50. I went Accell super stock for about 30.

Not to ramble off junk but where did you get your cap? Rockauto for example doesn not have the correct part number. Until I had a factory one in my hand I didn't even notice. Each terminal was off by about 10 degrees but it still fit and the car ran.

Just some ideas all pretty easy checks nice to know its all in working order anyways.

_________________
When I get that look in my eye its best not to ask questions 0.o
1978 Chevy monza 2+2, 74 step side Chevy, firebird,firebird,fake 91 firehawk in the making,trans am(dd),other trans am, n/a mk1 sprint, and my baby 1987 Chevy sprint turbo in red. How many run right now? Just the n/a sprint. It's not a collection it's my retirement plan.

they are good ideas,my car sits all winter and mice do try to nest,also do I have any fire worries of using starter fluid on lines? These thing will be the next stuff I do tomorrow morning.thanks george

negative on blocked air box,also used starting fluid and no increase in idle any where I sprayed it.but I noticed a rise in idle when I put the head lights on,dont know if this is a clue to whats truly the matter.also looked at pipe it all looks good but I don't know about cateletic converter. still smell a lot of gas at 3000 rpm coming up hill too my house.

Unless you've got a spark source in the bay (defective plug wire sloppy alternator connections glowing red hot CAT or turbo or something VERY wrong) starter fluid should not catch anything on fire if there is a flame it would be like holding a lighter to an can of AXE would very quickly go out unless your leaking fuel allot of fuel where you are spraying.

So this may be getting to deep Into it but I think a fuel pressure test is in order. You may have a stuck open injector. You can electrically test an injector but this really doesn't tell you anything besides the coil inside isn't shorted or open

Have you recently replaced your fuel filter or checked it's connections?

See what the pressure test yields around here you can rent a pressure test kit for a $100 deposite refunded upon its return.

That will show you if it's high or low I've got a few more idea but don't wanna send you on a goose chase until you know what your fuel pressure is doing.

Have you checked for stored codes?


Ever looming vaf of doom hopefully not I'm crossing my fingers for you.


Also the rpm should happen any time your car see's there is a heavy electrical load such as headlights heater/Ac a bumping stereo running without a decent capacitor.

_________________
When I get that look in my eye its best not to ask questions 0.o
1978 Chevy monza 2+2, 74 step side Chevy, firebird,firebird,fake 91 firehawk in the making,trans am(dd),other trans am, n/a mk1 sprint, and my baby 1987 Chevy sprint turbo in red. How many run right now? Just the n/a sprint. It's not a collection it's my retirement plan.

I know this is a stupid question but does this car come with a stock fuel filter? theres nothing that looks like filter in engine bay? also this car is very low milage (104000) miles,and not beaten ,owned by retired couple from new.

Go from where the upper radiator hose goes onto your radiator. Straight back to the firewall then down right underneath where you'd top off your brake fluid. One line on the top of the filter one on the bottom. It's a tubular canister about 5" tall.

_________________
When I get that look in my eye its best not to ask questions 0.o
1978 Chevy monza 2+2, 74 step side Chevy, firebird,firebird,fake 91 firehawk in the making,trans am(dd),other trans am, n/a mk1 sprint, and my baby 1987 Chevy sprint turbo in red. How many run right now? Just the n/a sprint. It's not a collection it's my retirement plan.

changed fuel filter ,but didn't get and improvement. I guess ill check coil next.,but I need to read up on how to do this. also drove home tonight,stopped and opened hood pipe to the right of engine facing car was cherry red after climb up hill to my house,is this normal? this is pipe right under last spark plug the pipe with guard.

Right above your turbo? I've seen the turbo glow before. Can you get any pictures? Fuel filters are pretty cheap and is a good thing to replace on any car with over 100k.

You'll need a multimeter to test the coil it's pretty simple to test I swear I've posted how on here before but a Google search should suffice for finding the procedure it's somewhat universal for that type of coil.

What kind of milage are you getting?

Do you let your car sit and idle for about a minute after getting home? You should for the sake of your turbo. They spin at an insane rpm and can burn up or coke the oil sitting in the turbo if they don't slow down and cool off before the engine stops.

Make sure the vaccume line going to your fuel pressure regulator is in good shape it should be on the side of your fuel rail with a single vaccume line running to it. Pull the vaccume line off make sure it isn't full of gas. If you don't know where this is look for your three injectors they plug into the fuel rail if I remember right the fpr is on the left of the rail.

Little by little and soon your car will be in tip top shape. Don't do what I did lol I burnt a valve from driving the piss out of a car that was running sub par. didn't help that my Pistons ring glands were worn out to start with.

Keep up the good work and fight the good fight

_________________
When I get that look in my eye its best not to ask questions 0.o
1978 Chevy monza 2+2, 74 step side Chevy, firebird,firebird,fake 91 firehawk in the making,trans am(dd),other trans am, n/a mk1 sprint, and my baby 1987 Chevy sprint turbo in red. How many run right now? Just the n/a sprint. It's not a collection it's my retirement plan.

ill get a pic tonight,gas milage is very poor,i also seen how to check coil and do have a Clintons manule for this car. I only run this car in spring and summer to pull dirt bike trailer, always ran great up to this point,but im enjoying learning a few thing about this car.Just checked coil outside terminal is 1.8 ohms,center terminal to left terminal is 14.6k ohms and center to right is 14.4k ohms,Would you replace this?

Fuel smell is most likely injector seals leaking. Check and Replace the o-rings on the injectors, and the seals in the head.
If you can't find parts, take them in to any reputable specialty parts store, they are standard issue.
They should have an assortment box you can match up the old ones to. Or check shops that rebuild injectors,
they should have an ample supply of seals.

I've never seen glowing exhaust on a turbo sprint, must be a really big hill...
I'm guessing your exhaust is clogged or restricted. Check you cat, or pre-cat.
You cat is probably empty, its the pre-cats that get clogged, or the elements break down into smaller
pieces and rattle around and turn sideways and restrict the exhaust.
At this point, you may want to remove anything in your pre cat, modern cat replacements will do
a fine job of cleaning up your exhaust. Problem is you will probably have to hack off the bolts
to gain access to the pre-cat element. No biggee if you have patience, the right size taps and
replacement hardware. I suspect that's your problem, restricted exhaust.

You can also go to any reputable muffler shop and they can to a backflow test to determine
if your exhaust is restricted, this may be an easier scenario for a quick test, rather than
battling rusting fasteners.

The top o rings are crucial, they fit the top of the injector into the fuel rail.
The bottom ones are extremely important too, they contain not so much the fuel pressure,
but seal against any vacuum leaks, as if they are bad and leaking it's just like having
any air leak in the air intake side of your engine. They can leak boost, just as any other weak
point in your air intake, loose hose clamp, hole in intercooler or hose, bad seal on PCV valve,
loose brake vacuum hose, whatever. When not under boost they can function as a source for vacuum leak.

The center seal is not a seal, its more of an insulator and ensures a snug fit of the injector, while
allowing you to swivel the injector. A properly sealed injector will allow you to swivel it, as its
the uppper and lower seals that do the sealing.

These are most often overlooked when sourcing for fuel smell, but very common failure points.

muffler,cat,and pre cat is open,took pipe off car all is clear.next onto injectors.also I ran car a little with air cleaner out ,car did run better ,but not a lot better.any known reason for this?

i have bought injector seal sets as well as injector rebuild kits for the turbo3 engines. they are shared by the mk1 and mk2 models, same green top 210 cc hi-z or saturated type. i have also found the wiring connectors for them.

although i have rebuilt these injectors, the kits contain new baskets, pintils, seats, and spray nozzles, it's only a small amount of money more to send them out for servicing. there are a number of mail order services that will mount them on a flow rack, ultrasonically clean them, rebuild them with the same kits, and then flow test them. they send back a chart indicating how well the flow matches across the injectors.

i think that the last time i sent injectors out it cost me $28 each and $5 each way, priority small box post.

_________________
1991 Blue Geo Metro Convertible highly modified 1.0L Turbo3 5 spd. - 1991 Red Geo Metro Convertible customized with a Twincam 5 spd.

My Turbo3 Project
My Cardomain Page -Ol' Blue
My YouTube Channel
My Photo Gallery
SAAB Sonett II

Fuel pressure test.

Sing it with me Fayullll pressure test

I really think we're all on the same page with a leak in or around your injector this will show in a fuel pressure test.

Cycle the key a few times or disconnect your coil and crank for a few seconds when you have a fuel pressure guage hooked in line and watch for that needle to start going down after you stop cranking or cycling the key. Check for leaking gas on your injectors one or more could look wet chances are it is fuel.

When you've got the guage hooked up start the car go under the hood while it is running and pull off the vaccume line to the FPR your fuel pressure should go to its maximum. If it doesn't spike check your manual for the correct pressure at idle. If your pressure with the vaccume line connected is higher than that it is your FPR.

Rent or buy a vaccume guage hook it to the FPR put some vaccume to it it should hold for atleast a few minutes if it doesn't it is your FPR.

After that if you haven't found your issue your gonna have to have your injectors serviced. Don't get on YouTube and service them yourself ship them out or find a shop that can do it for you. Whether or not the place dissasembles them that ultrasonic cleaning cycle does wonders. As mentioned they will also tell you the difference in flow between your injectors or if one needs replacing.

_________________
When I get that look in my eye its best not to ask questions 0.o
1978 Chevy monza 2+2, 74 step side Chevy, firebird,firebird,fake 91 firehawk in the making,trans am(dd),other trans am, n/a mk1 sprint, and my baby 1987 Chevy sprint turbo in red. How many run right now? Just the n/a sprint. It's not a collection it's my retirement plan.

i had this issue once in my mini, T3 conversion. i was on a road trip car was running fine we stopped for a few minutes at a place on the way to our destination, car started fine ran for a bit then all of a sudden no power the car ran but would not get out of its way managed to make it home later that day. on opening the hood i noticed the turbo charger was glowing red, after a while i started checking things and noticed the timing was way off actually retarded quite a bit. checked the distributor
and that was tight anyway what happened was the woodruff key in the crankshaft had opend up bigger than the key causing the timing issue,took it apart removed the key cleaned every thing up installed a new woodruff key and filled up the crank with my mig then ground down the weld so it was round again or at least close to being round. then re-installed the lower cog and belt, torqued things back to spec fired the car up, things were back to normal car is still running to this day with the repair, may want to check yours i understand this has been an issue with some of Suzuki's engines.

Minsuki.

bingo,this is exactly what happened, slot in gear for key is all worn and much wider than needed,is there a place to buy new gear and wodruf key? and do I have to retime this? not sure what to do .Thanks so much for your help.george

Minisuki is the man

Well I've got anything you could possibly need for your car soooo pm?

_________________
When I get that look in my eye its best not to ask questions 0.o
1978 Chevy monza 2+2, 74 step side Chevy, firebird,firebird,fake 91 firehawk in the making,trans am(dd),other trans am, n/a mk1 sprint, and my baby 1987 Chevy sprint turbo in red. How many run right now? Just the n/a sprint. It's not a collection it's my retirement plan.

Glad to hear that the problem was solved, funny thing is that the timing was so way off that the engine was un able to burn all the fuel being put into the cylinders thats why you had the smell of gas and the turbo started glowing as mine did.
As for the repair, like i said i put a new key in the slot and used my Lincoln mig welder to fill in the opened up area of the crank. Once that is done the the lower timing cog should slide right back on and the timing set up as in the shop manual and you should be good to go.

Minsuki.