TeamSwift

the factory alternator sux in my 1.0liter geo metro 3 cyl even when it was new. is there a factory alternator that bolts up to the factory mounting holes?

with the wipers on, driving at night, lights on, defroster blowing, the car almost dies if i have the stereo on even the slightest at traffic lights. Anyone know of a low budget fix? i did a search and alls i found was buying aftermarket alternator brackets.

Put a bigger battery in so you have more reserve for the accessories to draw from. What about those "mini" denso alternators that summit sells. Are they close to the same size?

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If it ain't broke, fix it until it is. LOL.

its got a bigger battery, i think the bigger battery is overloading the alternator. anyone else?

Getting or making new brackets will open up your choices. That said, this might be helpful:

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where do i find the brackets? how involved is it?

For the record, I put my 3 cyl. alt on my new GTi engine in the stock GTi brackets, and the only thing I had to change was the pulley.

Try that route.

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If it ain't broke, fix it until it is. LOL.

THANX! thats exactly what i was looking for. now what year swift do i order the alternator for?

ill be buying a 95 geo tracker alternator tomorow ill let you guys know how it goes i just did some research. THANX

according to autozone.com, the 95 tracker is still only 55 amp.

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1988 Chevrolet Sprint (Forsa clone) 3Tech cam and underdrive pulley, MSD 8mm wireset, shaved head, Weber 32/36 carb, Honda short shifter, KYB Gr2 suspension, Summit tach and gauges, Pilot steering wheel, NEW! Summit Multi-spark CDI
Project Page
1993 Geo Metro Only mods so far are a Honda short shifter, Glowshift tach and a 3a Racing ricer muffler (freebie)

then what alternator would work?? swift gti?

gti is still only 55amp as well.

some of the trackers/sidekicks did have 75amps not sure which ones tho.

the only ones that i have found that are 70-75 amp have different mounting. all the ones that will bolt up are only 55 amp. looks like different brackets will have to be made to make a higher amp alt work. also, dont forget about wiring. the higher amp ones have a different plug.

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1988 Chevrolet Sprint (Forsa clone) 3Tech cam and underdrive pulley, MSD 8mm wireset, shaved head, Weber 32/36 carb, Honda short shifter, KYB Gr2 suspension, Summit tach and gauges, Pilot steering wheel, NEW! Summit Multi-spark CDI
Project Page
1993 Geo Metro Only mods so far are a Honda short shifter, Glowshift tach and a 3a Racing ricer muffler (freebie)

if you go to a local alternater rebuilder you can tell them what your looking for and they can fix you up. mine died on my old civic and i had a choice of what amperage i wanted to go with but i stayed stock cause i wasnt running anything heavy in it. they mix match differnt stuff fom other alternators and can pretty much build you a custom one. well i dont know how they do it in the states but they can do it here. hope that helps some.

p.s. i know this is an old post it just referense for others looking for the same

If you can ask the overhaul shop to wind your alternator for a given output, would it stand to reason that if you wanted to improve economy, installing an alternator with a significantly reduced output might give you a portion of the alleged 10% gain seen when removing the alternator altogether?

As soon as money permits, I'll be attempting to install a 1989 gmc suburban 105 amp alternator. It seems to line up with holes and pulleys, but I can't be certain until I actually see it work... more after I've tried it.

You could also experiment with a resistor in the field wire to trick the alternator into putting out another .5-1 volt.

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If it ain't broke, fix it until it is. LOL.

You say your car is about to die with all your accessories turned on? I do notice when my car is warming up with all the accessories on..... soon as the thermostat opens my car has a bit of a tough time running smoothly? Is that what were talking about here?

This probably isn't a fault of the alternator. It may have to do with how your engine is running and what it's tune up state is. Have you run a compression check yet? This will help verify the condition of the engine.

Try running a small bottle of STP Oil Treatment at your next oil change. It's like $1.88 at Wally World (AKA WalMart). I have seen this really bring compression up on older tired engines! The three cylinder engines don't have the advantage of extra cylinders taking up or smoothing out an Idle when lower compression from one cylinder is present. Putting a load on the engine such as alot of electrical accessories all turned on will hurt the idle of any engine but in a tired 3 cylinder you would notice it a whole lot more!

I found 2 alternators at work today that I think would work with minimal modification.

http://www.autozone.com/R,APP180825/veh ... Detail.htm

http://www.autozone.com/R,APP181741/veh ... Detail.htm

Unfortunately, I couldn't find out what they fit. The first one has a newer style 4 pin GM connector on it and the second is the old 2 pin GM. The only problem with the second one is the fact that it is huge. With a 6 5/8" dia. case, it might be hard to get the top mount to fit right. Both have an almost perfect bottom mount.

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1988 Chevrolet Sprint (Forsa clone) 3Tech cam and underdrive pulley, MSD 8mm wireset, shaved head, Weber 32/36 carb, Honda short shifter, KYB Gr2 suspension, Summit tach and gauges, Pilot steering wheel, NEW! Summit Multi-spark CDI
Project Page
1993 Geo Metro Only mods so far are a Honda short shifter, Glowshift tach and a 3a Racing ricer muffler (freebie)

Hi,

I noticed reference at the beginning of this thread of a Chevy Alternator that fits the GTi. Well i`ve been in contact with a guy who sells alternators in the states and he has given me this ebay link to his store, he says this alternator is part #7127 as described in this teamswift thread.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... otohosting

Can someone please confirm for me if this is the correct alternator that fits the GTi?

Sam

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2000 Suzuki Swift GTi (MK2 1991 Engine)

That does not look like a 7127 alternator. Plus the 7127 has a different mount than what you need. You would still have to make a custom mount.

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1988 Chevrolet Sprint (Forsa clone) 3Tech cam and underdrive pulley, MSD 8mm wireset, shaved head, Weber 32/36 carb, Honda short shifter, KYB Gr2 suspension, Summit tach and gauges, Pilot steering wheel, NEW! Summit Multi-spark CDI
Project Page
1993 Geo Metro Only mods so far are a Honda short shifter, Glowshift tach and a 3a Racing ricer muffler (freebie)

today i came across an alternator from a friend of mine that pushs 106 amps and fits like a glove, but the down side is .... its rare. this particular alt is brand new. i asked my friend to see how many more he can come across at work, so that i could provide them to teamswift members.

What was it off of?!

me too interested

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Bong,Bong,Bong....zuki's

i see these requests for a higher output replacement for the oem alternator and the same thought always comes to mind.

the location of the oem alternator allows for less belt "wrap" on the alternator pulley. already, even with a 35 amp alternator, if the belt isn't banjo string tight, the belt slips. increasing the load without improving the belt drive system would further increase the tendency for the belt slip.

relocating the alternator mounting to the oem ac position would make more sense. you could use the existing belt tensioner to get greater than 180 degrees of wrap on the pulley and take the tension off the water pump bearing.

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1991 Blue Geo Metro Convertible highly modified 1.0L Turbo3 5 spd. - 1991 Red Geo Metro Convertible customized with a Twincam 5 spd.

My Turbo3 Project
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Something else they might try is changing all their bulbs to LED's, they pull alot less volts.