TeamSwift

hey to all fellow turbo sprint owners...had mine since brand new off showroom floor...30 years of fun..
still don't want to give up on it just yet..
quit firing while driving...
anyway no spark is the issue ...have two working coils so not the problem...seems there is no pulse on the neg side of coil when cranking...
never had an issue like this before ..any help would be appreciated ......

there is a black electronics module positioned on the left strut tower. that's the ignition control unit.

it is most probably bad and in need of a new one.

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1991 Blue Geo Metro Convertible highly modified 1.0L Turbo3 5 spd. - 1991 Red Geo Metro Convertible customized with a Twincam 5 spd.

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Ignitor issues, or distributor module.
Don't rule out wiring as the culprit.
Do you have codes?
My ignitor failed after more than 600,000 miles, it took a bit to sort it out
never having one failed before. It would start, run 60 seconds, then die.
I had another TS fail, distributor wiring harness, broken wire inside the insulation,
took half a day and jiggling the wire harness with a DMM to trace it.
Then I had a rash of ignitors fail on several cars, having stocked up on them,
it was an easy 5 min. diagnosis/part swap to verify. Another one was distributor module
fail, that was harder, replacement dizzy was rebuilt 180 off, so after thinking that was
a good unit, it took a bit to figure out the distributor electronics had actually failed.
Went through the diagnosis tree, and back to what I thought was a good test part,
was not a good test part, reset distributor 180 and all good. Point is original problem
was distributor, I replaced with a known good part, but part was not good. Doh!
Do you have FSM and turbo supplement? Should be all you need.

had my ignition switch burn out.....3 time 1987-88 sprint turbo (also 93 geo vert 1 time)
easy look
take off the surround plastic around the steering wheel ( two square pieces 6 screws)
look at the back of the Key switch the white round plastic size of half dollar has wires
solder on it look for Burn were the wire go into the white pastic
.
.

car is 500 miles from me so ..work is slow progress..
thanks for replies.....
replaced ignitor module (thanks 1987paperchuckerTurbo) and still no spark...
power for ignition coil from ecm ...check
power and ground to ignitor...check
bypass brown wire from ignitor to coil ,still no difference..
question ..does your test light pulse when you touch it to the negative side of coil when cranking?...
bulb on mine glows constant.......
if it does stay constant JamalSpelling mentioned "distributor wiring harness, broken wire inside the insulation"
have to check that...

no negative side of coil should be pulsing. No pulse meant bad ground, coil, igniter or ECU. You can't bypass the ignition system.

Okay let's trying this

01) Assumed battery is good at 11.4 volt or above... and cranking at 9.6 volt or above.
02) Disconnect ACC fuse and cranking the engine for 10 seconds to get the good code.

if code 41 and or 42

11) Disconnect the battery and FP relay
12) Pull out the ECU connector
13) Reconnect the battery
14)Check
- B for 12v ,
- B+ for 12v while on and 0v while off.
- ground for no resistance. (0 to .2 ohm)

If good battery and ground then do check for CAS IF you get code 42

21) Connected CAS + and CAS - for resistance as 140-180 ohm (I think MK1 and MK2 are same but you need to confirm it.)

If good then check for igniter as code 41

31) IGT and ground for pulsed 0-5v while cranking

If yes = bad coil therefore test it for resistance or replace igniter
If no = replace ECU


Good luck.

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sorry bout my bad english