TeamSwift

jeez, if you didn't keep those parts all caged up like a prized canary, you might have noticed the hub caps before this.

i keep my parts in piles, so they can breath free air and spread out. it makes it easier to find what i'm looking for.

i know right where all my hub caps are - next to the stack of rims and tires.

_________________
1991 Blue Geo Metro Convertible highly modified 1.0L Turbo3 5 spd. - 1991 Red Geo Metro Convertible customized with a Twincam 5 spd.

My Turbo3 Project
My Cardomain Page -Ol' Blue
My YouTube Channel
My Photo Gallery
SAAB Sonett II

I'm going to try that.
Thanks for the sagacious advice.
Damn, this new system has me running to the computer to look for ... a part!
Good thing I've not put my tools away like this, or who knows what would happen.

This morning, the car got a nice little O2 sensor which I've been saving (in a box ) for just such an occasion. Lifted the car, and the driver's CV joint has gone the O3B route (lost it's ability to hold it all together) so that means another trip to L.A. next week. Isn't life just like that? Last week, prior to running into L.A. it was fine. Good thing I decided to put that O2 sensor in today!
There was a BOX in the attic which I pulled down and it has a new CV axle in it.
It has part number 19353 on it, but does anyone know if it is for an automatic or stick GTi?

You think it would be safe to drive with a torn CV boot for a week until we have the cash to fix it?

_________________
DIY Broken Bolt Removal: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=41042
DIY Clutch Adjustment: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48281
DIY Wheel Bearings: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29003
DIY Shocks: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=45483
DIY Wheel Align: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42479
Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!

Just stay away from Dusty Rhodes. That guy will screw things up quickly. O3B...

don't get all wigged out over a torn boot. heck, i've driven those cvbs until they were clicking like a turnstile at a subway station at rush hour.

is that O3BI or O3BII? gotta' know what probe to use.

_________________
1991 Blue Geo Metro Convertible highly modified 1.0L Turbo3 5 spd. - 1991 Red Geo Metro Convertible customized with a Twincam 5 spd.

My Turbo3 Project
My Cardomain Page -Ol' Blue
My YouTube Channel
My Photo Gallery
SAAB Sonett II

Thanks for the input.
Yeah, Dusty Rhodes was a DJ
http://www.independent.ie/business/iris ... 88898.html
WAY back (a long time ago ... in Bethlehem). You won't find him on Wickipedia, though.
I'll take your advice and let her use it to run back and forth to work while there's still gas in it.
But come next week I'll yank out that CV axle and reboot it.
This Teamswift site! It sure helps with life's little problems.

Not sure if it's a O3BI or O3BII, but I'll ask next time I'm at the liquor store.
I saw the probe once; it was a crooked affair with some hair on it and it pulsed green and red, IIRC.
Exactly where it went and whether it was Metric or SAE is still a mystery, but after a few thrusts, the old rust heap groaned either clockwise, or COUNTER-CLOCKWISE, and it just hasn't been wrapped too tightly since. I've been getting some PMs about being too hard, mean, cruel, and tactless about the whole affair. Moi? Some even go so far as to say I'm 'picking' on ...well. Maybe it's time to pull out the 'nice guy' card...nah !
We're hoping to slice it, dice it, pare it, and peel it to get it down to some form which can be repaired, but it seems consistently resilient to any and all civil and reasonable efforts.

Time to pull out the grease and the BFH, I suppose.

_________________
DIY Broken Bolt Removal: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=41042
DIY Clutch Adjustment: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48281
DIY Wheel Bearings: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29003
DIY Shocks: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=45483
DIY Wheel Align: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42479
Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!

Took the advice of the Teamswift 'crew' and let her drive it a day or two, but then pulled it off the line and back to the convertible she went, driving back and forth to work with the shiny new underbody brace from that Moderator. What was his name?

Here it is 10 days later, and it is sporting new axle boots and new transmission seals.
Man, those 2 days she drove it sure let the axle boot grease fly.
It took HOURS to clean up the wheel wells before I could get in there to take it apart.


While I was in L.A. I snagged a new radiator for very little money.
After the axles were in and tight, I tied off the automatic transmission lines

unbolted, unhooked, and unplugged the whole mess then pulled it straight up and out.

The new radiator side by side has all the correct inlets, bolt holes, transmission coolers, and outlets


BUT

it seems to be a bit thin:


Last night, I took it out to the 'drive through' for a burger and the temperature never went above 2/3.
However, when cruising along the freeway, she drops down to 1/3 on the gauge.
What do you think?
Is it a keeper, or should I put in a double row?

_________________
DIY Broken Bolt Removal: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=41042
DIY Clutch Adjustment: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48281
DIY Wheel Bearings: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29003
DIY Shocks: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=45483
DIY Wheel Align: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42479
Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!

Leave it in for now because it's the start of winter but when you start seeing Floridian type temps I'd keep a sharp eye on that guage. If you find in the warmer weather it isn't working for you, I know someone in cooler climates who would probably take it of your hands.

I had one of those in my MK1 for a short while,
seemed to hold the same amount of coolant overall.
Never did see a problem with the temp.

You might want to work up a seal on the sides,
the fan is going to pull air from the least resistance
and you won't get proper airflow through the rad
with those big gaps.

I was using duct tape as a quick fix,
which I'm sure makes you cringe, the purist you are.
I was going to work up a sheet metal or aluminum plate
mod, but eventually upgraded the rad to an aluminum
one from Ebay. Very nice and priced around 2 bills.
It didn't sit right with me, the thin core and plastic tanks,
not that it didn't function correctly, but the aesthetics of
it all.

The alloy rad was for a swift, and I had to file up the holes
in the top mounts a but for a perfect fit, but I'm sure it would
bolt up just right on your rig.

Ah...back to the update:
It's been about 3 weeks, and progress is one step forward, two steps backwards:

The new 'one row' radiator got returned.
Its capacity was decidedly less than the original 2 row. It probably would work for a SOHC 8V Swift, but this DOHC probably deserves better.
The old radiator got a good soak in white vinegar for a couple of days.
Then, new foam rubber (white arrows) was put on to replace the deteriorated stuff.
The radiator cap was leaking, as evidenced by the green circles.
We've swapped in an old cap from a different car and blotted up the antifreeze to see if that fixes things.
The overflow tank has been at the 'full' mark for the past 3 weeks, so it is a minor, minor seep.
According to "The Boss", the old two row radiator is doing a better job now.
She is going by her temperature gauge, which isn't too 'scientific', but I trust her vision better than mine.
That means the vinegar soak and new foam rubber were good things, but returning the one row radiator was an unfortunate backward step. It would have been nice to have it work because it only cost $50, but sometimes you get what you pay for. As time progresses, we'll get a new two row; certainly before Summer.
Also wheels and tires are on the list for this daily driver.
She'd rather drive this car than her convertible...even if there's a slight problem with the A/C bracket; more on that another day.
A few odds and ends to go, and the car will be good for the coming cold weather.
The windy season is just around the corner, so we will see her average of 29 miles per gallon drop.
This isn't an 'econobucket' by any means; you can buy new cars which get much better gas mileage.
The heater works fine.
She got a parcel tray from one of the other cars

which gives it a more 'finished' look.
It doesn't rattle like they sometimes do, and it will keep her shopping out of the direct sunlight.
Speaking of which, temps locally peak in the 90F range daily, but overall it is great snowbird weather.
If you are planning a trip to Palm Springs, your window of comfortable visiting time is now opened and will be for another 8 months. Of all the free things to do, don't forget the Thursday night Street Fair.

_________________
DIY Broken Bolt Removal: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=41042
DIY Clutch Adjustment: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48281
DIY Wheel Bearings: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29003
DIY Shocks: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=45483
DIY Wheel Align: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42479
Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!

So far, this

is the overall look of her car.
Everything was stable until a few days ago.
Gradually the cold idle started creeping up.
2500, 2750, 3000, and then 3250 rpms and it would hold there for 2 minutes before dropping down to a reasonable level.
Not something you let get out of the yard, especially if it is being driven by someone else.
They might get in a hurry and SLAM that puppy in gear at 3250.
BTW, that's about 55 mph in third gear (automatic).

After clamping off the ISC (idle solenoid control) with no effect, I pulled the elbow going to the idle air valve.
It is the round aluminum thing at the back of the intake manifold, above the 'FI' in this picture:

Then, a little black tape to block off the inlet and give the cold start a try.
Sure enough, it fired up and idled at the normal warm idle.

Here's a close up of the part with a number:


A few years back I bought an intake from ssgti/89 for a DOHC transplant that I'm going to do.
So, out came that intake and off came the part.
Bolted it on this car, and instant repair.
During the cold months, the car will fire up and idle around 1800 and then drop to 850 or so when warm.
If you know of a repair thread, kindly post a link below, as I still have the old one and if I can salvage it I will.

The car idles like a kitten now, and 'She Who Must Be Obeyed' is very happy to have her wings again.
Off she went today dressed in her Halloween costume.
Updates as progress continues.
Plenty of work left to get it back up to 'super' condition, but for now she is stable again.

_________________
DIY Broken Bolt Removal: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=41042
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DIY Wheel Bearings: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29003
DIY Shocks: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=45483
DIY Wheel Align: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42479
Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!

Hmm .. that is no way to talk about her dressing up in her Halloween costume

Pics of the Halloween costume .. hahahaa

_________________
There are three kinds of people in the world, those that can count and those that can't

This year she spent her $$$ on one of these:

(Cricut personal electric cutter)
as she wanted to make some Baby Shower Invitations for a girl at work.
Thus, she just stuck some ghoul stickers on a black outfit and slipped a black belt over it all:

...much more modest than previous years.
If the company goes back to cash awards for costumes next year...watch out!

_________________
DIY Broken Bolt Removal: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=41042
DIY Clutch Adjustment: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48281
DIY Wheel Bearings: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29003
DIY Shocks: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=45483
DIY Wheel Align: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42479
Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!

Phil, did you end up replacing the windshield and molding? Can you post a pic? I need to replace mine and I'm curious to see what the universal molding looks like. The OEM molding is around $90. Thanks.

Brian

_________________
'93 Geo Metro

Question answered in person over the weekend; it was nice seeing an old Teamswift member.
Thanks for the parts, Brian; hope you and your family have a great Thanksgiving.

It has almost been two weeks so here's a little update: the idle valve replacement gives the car a much more 'tame' personality on start up, even in cold (20F) weather. There is no 3500 cold idle anymore. It fires right up, and barely hits 1500 rpms until it the engine warms. That is a big help, as with an automatic, you don't want to slam it in gear when the idle is at freeway speeds. Also, in the cold North America weather, if you decide to warm up the car, it isn't out in the yard screaming like a banshee while the neighbors are trying to sleep.

Although I am not completely satisfied with the engine oil leaks, it was time to change the oil.
We had some Mobil 1 Extended Performance oil and filters in the garage, so I stuck some of that in it.
It is a nice oil, but what I wanted to mention was the oil plug.
If you are changing oil, some people change the oil plug each time.
I don't.
But I do swap on a new oil plug gasket/washer.
Here is what I use:

complete with a part number.

You can use that washer and plug combination several times with no oil leaks.
Every couple years, I've been switching in a new washer, and still no leaks.
Also, if your parts are clean when you put them back on, you won't have to torque them so tight.
It seems every oil drain plug I remove has been over tightened by the previous owner.
I understand you want to 'err' on the side of being too tight, but you can damage the oil pan threads.
With the new washers, even if the drain plug is barely more than finger tight, it won't leak.

Next time you change your oil, think about using one of those metal/rubber washers.
They are pretty substantial and were not available years ago.

_________________
DIY Broken Bolt Removal: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=41042
DIY Clutch Adjustment: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48281
DIY Wheel Bearings: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29003
DIY Shocks: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=45483
DIY Wheel Align: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42479
Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!

It's been 6 weeks, so time to update this thread.
The car overall still looks like this

and is street legal with all the running lights back to stock working condition.
When last we updated this thread, it was for a cold idle problem and an oil change.
After that oil change, I noticed the oil 'idiot' light was out on the dash.
This weekend, the opportunity to fix it presented itself.

First, I removed the garnish and pulled the instrument cluster out just enough to reach those little bulbs in the back. No way it was possible to reach up from underneath with my big mitts.
After installing a replacement bulb, the light still wasn't working.
That meant the problem was somewhere else.
On a GTi, you have to pull the oil filter to get at the oil pressure sending unit, and when it was visible, it looked to be a new unit.
Aha. Maybe the previous owner had a problem with that light as well.
I clipped a wire directly to ground and then to the place where the spade connector attaches.
Still that oil light wouldn't light.
So, still using my 'high tech' instrument:

with one side of the alligator clip on the bullet style connector behind the headlight (routing for the oil pressure sending unit is different than a Metro) and the other alligator clip to a good ground the oil light on the dash would light. That meant the problem was between the 'bullet connector' and the oil pressure sending unit, leaving only one piece: the wire. Somewhere, it was bad.
I pulled the wire

and cleaned it up with the usual (toothbrush, Purple Power/Simple Green, water rinse) and then inspected it with a digital volt/ohm meter. The wire needed fixing at the end where it attaches to the 'spade type connector' which attaches to the oil pressure sending unit.
Once this connection was cleaned up, a new length of fresh wire was inserted and crimped, the oil pressure light on the dash worked as originally intended.

Total cost: $0.
Knowing that the light works? Priceless.

_________________
DIY Broken Bolt Removal: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=41042
DIY Clutch Adjustment: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48281
DIY Wheel Bearings: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29003
DIY Shocks: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=45483
DIY Wheel Align: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42479
Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!

Yummy Bacon's Ride
.

.
.
.
.
.
.
Phil n Ed's ride ....Glass headlight's ? very cool

.

Yummy Bacon's hubcaps look familiar.......

Middle of March, and the car hasn't really missed a beat.
It has been cold, but the car starts fine, and idles AOK.
However some major and minor work is scheduled for this year, and then it should be a very dependable daily driver. She uses every excuse in the book to drive this instead of her convertible, so I guess the experiment has been a success.
Once the weather warms a bit more though, she'll lose this ride as I'll be pulling it into the garage and tearing into that engine to fix some oil leaks.
Minor upgrades include a later Pioneer MP3 stereo with Ipod front input and a new windshield.

Today, just a short update about that rear hatch wiper.
This far south, we get little to no rain for months and months.
Lately, we got some rain, and finally it was time to try out that rear hatch wiper.
Ooops.
It got stuck at the top under the spoiler during the top of its sweep.
So, here's a little well-known tip from up North:
If the wiper is catching at the top, bend the arm which sticks up from the motor post, and that will bring the wiper down enough to clear.

Here's the new wiper sitting on a freshly bent swing arm:

which probably won't get used for another year.

_________________
DIY Broken Bolt Removal: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=41042
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DIY Wheel Bearings: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29003
DIY Shocks: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=45483
DIY Wheel Align: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42479
Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!

Nice
here in the North Wet we dont use that rear wiper unless it's a down pour
because the back glass in these car are so soft
the road grit will scratch the rear glass with just one touch of the rear wiper switch
.
.
.......jv&s
.
.
.
.
.

_________________
.

In case you missed it, today is the ONE year anniversary of the 'yet to be named' GTi automatic.
It has been in service for most of the time as a daily driver and today it got a spanking, compliments of yours truly.

We love our wives, and I'm no exception.
The one part of the car that they lay hands on is that steering wheel.

After some consideration, I popped for a leather steering wheel cover...the kind you have to lace on.
So, armed with a 17 mm socket, I popped the horn button

and removed the steering wheel nut in the center.
Fortunately, I had put that wheel in the car, so it has a light coating of grease on it, and she came off without too much trouble:

Then, it was time to take a look at the task at hand.
Parts?
Just a small bag of thread with a needle and the smelly leather cover, size Medium from China:

At first, I thought it was a waste of time to pull the steering wheel, because you could sew it while on the column:

but even with the direct sunlight, it was a bear to see the little thread.
I opted to bring the wheel in the garage and sew it at the work bench.
It took a couple of hours, but here is the final result:

(notice the small amount of left over thread... )
and installed...without

and with the horn button:


Prior to this 'upgrade' we were using a nice looking but loose fitting steering wheel cover from the local parts house.
This was less expensive, and more time consuming, but definitely much better.

If you have seen those steering wheel covers on Ebay, you now have a 'positive' product review.
Make sure to follow their instructions exactly, because you only get about 3 or 4 inches of extra thread.
Also, consider where you want the seams. In this unit, there were three.

Lucky for the car, the Wife will be behind the wheel again starting tomorrow, so no more spanking at my hands....what a fun little ride, and I'd say we got our money's worth.

_________________
DIY Broken Bolt Removal: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=41042
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DIY Wheel Bearings: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29003
DIY Shocks: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=45483
DIY Wheel Align: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42479
Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!

next up, 5 speed transmission swap

_________________
Silver 2000 Firefly 4DR; 16V SOHC, 3 to 5 speed swap, install PS and AC, remote and auto start, PL, PW, kill and start switch, Valentine 1, behind-bumper CAI, 55MM TB with coolant-bypass, polyurethane-fill engine/shifter mounts, modified to short shifter, upgraded electrical system, CS130 alternator, 90/160W headlights + relay mod, ceramic H4 plug/harness
To do: finish stereo, 4000K H4 HIDs, short block replacement
'sponsored' by Captain Crunch, Lordco, Felpro, Permatex, Royal Purple

Nice I've always wonder what the leather rap wheel would look like it is a pricey Acc,
Question .? A/T GTI with a tach.?
was that a stocker ..or a phil add on .?
.
you don't have to repond just pondering
.
.jv&s
.
(94 GT driven daily no windshield)


..
.
.
.

_________________
.

The leather sew on steering wheel covers are about $11 shipped, so they aren't too expensive.
It takes a long time to sew it on, though.
I think its safer than the other steering wheel covers which can slip.

They came from the factory, with a speedometer and tach.
As far as I've seen, only one year (1989) had the automatic stock.
It's the same transmission as the Sprint and early Metro.
And she keeps it under 4500 rpms (hopefully )
The damn thing is hell on wheels.
I would tear it up if I was to drive it on a daily basis.
She'll probably never wear out the tranny as she's a lot easier on the car.

If I was to stuff a different instrument cluster in there, it would have

more numbers on the speedometer.

_________________
DIY Broken Bolt Removal: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=41042
DIY Clutch Adjustment: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48281
DIY Wheel Bearings: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29003
DIY Shocks: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=45483
DIY Wheel Align: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42479
Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!

Phil,
How'd you know "medium" size would fit so snuggly???

Or was it a lucky guess

_________________
Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car.HP is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how much you push the wall out.

The MK2 GT steering wheel measures about 36.5 cm in diameter and about 9.5 circumference.
Their medium is supposed to fit 37-39 cm wheels and a 10 diameter.
The small goes up to 36 cm, and I couldn't find a small without the holes.
So, I took a chance on the medium.
It is a compromise, and the cover is a tad wide compared to one designed for the wheel.
Once you lace it up and the sun softens it, the medium should be fine.
It doesn't stretch real tightly around the circumference, but for $10 you get a pretty decent result.
I will test fit our next batch on an MK1 steering wheel, but it might be too wide as the MK1 steering wheel is thin.

They sell the leather covers with and without holes.
In our geographical region, the holes end up collecting dirt so I tried the 'no holes' version.

The 'Boss' drove it to work today and liked it.
It looks like we'll be buying several more.
The cover has the added benefit of protecting the wheel from sun damage, I hope.

It's not a 'high tech' super deluxe special engine rebuild improvement, or a tricky new way to save on fuel consumption.
But considering what it is and where it is, you might give it a try.
You will have to sit still for quite a while as you stitch, stitch, stitch...unless you have a secret weapon (Asian girlfriend/wife) in your back pocket.

_________________
DIY Broken Bolt Removal: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=41042
DIY Clutch Adjustment: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48281
DIY Wheel Bearings: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29003
DIY Shocks: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=45483
DIY Wheel Align: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42479
Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!

Last week we did the steering wheel cover.
Today the new radiator arrived...
It was a bit of a disappointment.
The core size is a little small, at 26 mm:

and it arrived well packaged and unharmed.
I called the guy and he claimed that he had the warehouse check visually and verify.
They said it was a '2 row' radiator.
Although it does seem to have wide 'rows',

that looks suspiciously like a 'one row' radiator to me.
It is a Spectrum Premium CU1168 radiator for the automatic, and the inlet and outlet are correct, as well as the rest of the dimensions.
Perhaps it will bolt up and work for most applications.

Maybe I'll run it and see how it does during the hottest part of the summer and some real traffic with the A/C going on high.
They included a little insulated piece of 16 gauge wire, so you can ground the thing.
However, there's no flange on the sides of the radiator to put a sheet metal screw.

So, just a heads up on the Spectrum Premium radiators.
They are packaged well, and will bolt up fine, but they are not 2 row.
Cooling?
We shall see....

_________________
DIY Broken Bolt Removal: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=41042
DIY Clutch Adjustment: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48281
DIY Wheel Bearings: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29003
DIY Shocks: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=45483
DIY Wheel Align: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42479
Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!