TeamSwift

I am replacing my outer CV joint boot. I have the axel out and the old torn boot off. Question is, I don't see a way to take the outside joint apart so that I can slip the new boot on. Accoring to the service manual, you have to take the inside joint apart, by removing the snap ring then slide the outside boot on by way of the inside shaft? Isn't there a way to remove the ouside joint so I don't have to take apart the inside joint just to replace the outside boot??

Thanks.

Yes, you can knock the entire outer joint off the shaft. Though there is a circlip in there, it will compress and slip through.

I usually clamp the shaft in a vise, then using a huge open ended wrench slip this over the shaft so it contacts the inner spider face. I then whack the open ended wrench to transfer the blows to the inner spider itself.

I hear you can use a sliding hammer to pull the whole outer CV off too but haven't ever tried that method.

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1992 Geo metro, 1.0L 5spd, 511,000miles on original engine & trans
- First time engine work at 456K miles, bad headgasket. Rebuilt head, Felpro gasket installed.
- knuckles/hubs/brakes/13" wheels from a 2000 Metro, running 175 70R13
- New bearings and 1st/2nd synchros at 440.5K miles.
- MPGuino
- Averaging ~ 51MPG these days

Thanks for the info JBD. That must be why my outer boot kit included a new "C" ring. I initially thought it was a clip for where the shaft enters the tranny.

I think I understand your instructions. You place the shaft (between the two joints) in the vise. You then use an open ended wrench slightly bigger than shaft so it contacts the spider, then wack the wrench with GFH.?

Any other hints would be apprectiated.

I might just replace the inner boot too, since it is original, and my neede replacing in a year or two anyway.

Thanks again JBD!

this job is a HUGE pain in the arse - it took me and a mate a full week to get done (mind you we didnt take the axel out) plus it was a nissan

- to take it off all you need to do is line up the cv so that it is straight and knock it gently (parallel to the shaft) and it will fall off.

putting it back on you must compress the c clip with a pair of pliars or a screwdriver and knock the new cv in. do not force it otherwise you will do what we did and break the f**n thing in half. then you ahve to go hunting for a new one *joy*

other than that its preety simple. for a more simpler option (albiet mroe expensive) you can buy the whole shaft and just replace the entire thing.

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What you typed and Gladier wrote is true and works. Oh yeah, sometimes it helps to have a friend hold the output stub of the outer joint (the part that goes into the hub) straight and pull slightly. The whacking helps to compress the clip but may not take the joint off without some persuasive tugging at the same time. (yes, I used whacking and tugging in the same sentence!)

Regarding putting the outer joint back on, I haven't had the problem Gladier has had BUT you do have to be careful and not let the clip slip around. The groove it sits in is much deeper than the clip itself. You can the clip be out of position when engaging and instead of naturally getting compressed by the entrance ramp of the spider, wedge itself.

Smear some of the joint grease on the clip/spline/shaft end to keep it in place and centered and you should be fine.

_________________
1992 Geo metro, 1.0L 5spd, 511,000miles on original engine & trans
- First time engine work at 456K miles, bad headgasket. Rebuilt head, Felpro gasket installed.
- knuckles/hubs/brakes/13" wheels from a 2000 Metro, running 175 70R13
- New bearings and 1st/2nd synchros at 440.5K miles.
- MPGuino
- Averaging ~ 51MPG these days

Thanks again. I ended up changing the inside CV boot too, it wasn't looking to good and they were only $10 each. It really wasn't to bad, just kind of messy. This weekend I am going to do the other side. They are more than likely good for another year or so, but I would rather do them before they rip and leak.