TeamSwift

Hi All,

I've done a ton of google and forum searches but keep coming up just a bit short. I know a few people have the 32/36 on their mk1/metro/swifts but i haven't found anyone that says theirs runs right yet.

I'm looking to see if anyone has an idea on jetting for the 1.0..? I have a superf1y head and cam on an otherwise stock 93 model 1.0 / 5spd.

If dialing this carb in isn't a relatively easy task, is there a direct bolt on that will be properly jetted for my application? The engine is in a rear-engine buggy (similar to MinnesotaDuane's).

Thanks for all the help, and sorry if i'm asking a question that's been covered before.

ive been looking at this as well. still dont know anything.
the 32/36 is very tuneable, but the general talk is you need a wideband o2 sensor for anything other than swaping the jets.

_________________
"muchos tanks, village destruidos"
"muchos sanks, menos submarinos"
"its the dreams that keep you alive"
-vernon wasser-

88 sprint, 4dr sold
87 turbo 2dr, never ran
86 sprint, 2dr current DD!

As soon as my cam gets back from 3tech I will be getting my sprint up and running with a weber. I have a wideband O2 sensor w/f gauge and a redline high elevation jetting kit to start with. When I get some progress I will update this topic with my results.

_________________
87 Chevy Sprint 1.0L Carbureted.
3-Tech 226/395 Cam - Weber 32/36DGEV
The car I learned to drive a manual transmission and
took my driving test in. Was left as dead in the desert
for 10 years. Resurrected and modified to be my daily
driver and fun little toy. Ugly everywhere but under the hood!

Well, I have the car running, and so far, using the sv3 guide, I have started the process of getting things tuned. So far I am finding that changing any one jet seems to effect everything else in one way or another. Right now I am trying to get the part throttle cruising settings ironed out as it is running a bit too lean at the fine line between idle and accelerating. In the morning I am going to try 1 size larger on the main jet to see if that makes a difference, however I have a feeling that my problem is actually in the progression circuit and that going to a larger idle jet will make more of a difference. I am hesitant to disclose any jet sizes just yet, as I am still rather early in the tuning process.

_________________
87 Chevy Sprint 1.0L Carbureted.
3-Tech 226/395 Cam - Weber 32/36DGEV
The car I learned to drive a manual transmission and
took my driving test in. Was left as dead in the desert
for 10 years. Resurrected and modified to be my daily
driver and fun little toy. Ugly everywhere but under the hood!

Spent all day today tuning and testing, I think I have things close to dialed in.

I started by getting the car to idle by adjusting the idle speed screw. She was a bit rough but idled well enough to get to operating temperature. I waited till the fan kicked on to do anything else, as that tells me that things are warm enough to considered operating temp.

Next I disconnected the vacuum advance from the distributor and adjusted the timing to max manifold vacuum, which should put you at the right amount of advance for the weber. After re-connecting the vacuum line to the distributor I then shut the engine off, and set the idle mixture screw to 2 turns out, and the idle speed screw 1 turn in from just touching the stop.

With these initial settings I started the car, and adjusted the idle speed screw to obtain roughly 800 rpm idle. At these settings the a/f gauge was reading extremely rich, somewhere in the 10 range, so I started turning the idle mixture screw in until the engine started to stumble, then backed it out until things smoothed out again. At this point the gauge showed about 14.5 to 15.5 (it bounces around a bit on my car due to the cam, so a solid number is hard to nail down). The idle had gone up a bit so I re set it to 800 with the idle speed screw. After getting to this point I gave it a bit of a rev to clear out any condensed fuel in the intake and checked the numbers again and making tiny adjustments dialed in to the aforementioned numbers.

Next I shut the car off and, counting the turns, turned the idle adjustment screw in until it just touched the stop. I found I was roughly 3/4 of a turn out from the stop, which meant that the idle jet is too big. So with that in mind, I got out the jet kit and replaced the primary idle jet with one 2 sizes smaller, from a 60 to 50. I decided to go 2 sizes due to how far in the screw was adjusted.

After this I re-set the mixture screw to 2 turns out and the idle speed to 1 turn in and started the engine up again. After adjusting the idle to 800 rpm, I performed the mixture adjustments as above and after shutting off the engine and counting the turns on the mixture screw found I was a little over 2 turns out, which is within acceptable limits, but may indicate the jet is a little small (more on that soon).

With the idle circuit fairly nailed down, I took the car out for a drive. I found that mild acceleration was showing mid 9's on the a/f gauge (way too rich) and full throttle was at about 10.5 (a little rich), and that attempting to hold about any speed below highway speeds the gauge was showing 17-19 (WAY too lean), and the engine was running quite rough. When I got home, I did a little homework which told me that the low speed circuit fuel flow is dictated by the ports in the primary idle jet, which would be the culprit for the lean condition at cruise, so decided to go 1 size bigger on the primary idle jet (55 in this case). I also kind of broke the rules a little (the rule being only change 1 thing at a time), and, due to the obviously rich condition of the primary main circuit, went 1 size smaller on that jet (135 in this case).

After getting the idle mixture adjusted (again following the above procedure), I took the car out for another test drive. Immediately I found that the over-lean condition at cruise was eliminated. The gauge was showing 15-16, which is a little lean but the engine is pretty much simply coasting at this point so a little lean is OK here. Moderate acceleration was now showing about 10 on the gauge, and WOT was 11, so still a bit rich there.

When I got home after the 2nd test drive I changed the primary main jet 1 more size smaller (130), re-adjusted the idle mixture (which to my surprise was a little different after changing the main jet), and took it out for another spin. Moderate acceleration was a little over 11 on the gauge, still a little rich, and WOT was also still at 11, and cruise was a little smoother, but still showing 15 on the a/f gauge.

At this point I knew I was close to getting there, so when I got home I changed the air corrector out 3 sizes bigger (from 170 to 200). I went 3 steps because the air corrector has a smaller effect on the mixture and the book says 3 sizes on the air corrector is equivalent to 1 on the main jet. I figured that this would either get me right in the pocket, or maybe a little lean. When I took the car out for a test drive, I found that cruise was relatively unaffected, moderate acceleration showed 13.2 to 13.5 while in the primary, and opening the secondary took the ratio to 12.9 and up to 12.7 at WOT. All these numbers looked good to me, so right here I am going to leave it, and see how things go.

With the last set of adjustments, my butt-dyno could feel a definite increase in power, probably due to getting into the sweet-spot on the air-fuel ratio. I was rather surprised at how the secondary fell right into line once I got the primary ironed out, I was figuring that I would have to open up the carb a couple more times to get that taken care of.

My final jetting is as follows:

Primary Idle: 55
Primary Main: 130
Primary Air Corrector: 200

Secondary Idle: 50
Secondary Main: 140
Secondary Air Corrector: 160

One thing to keep in mind is that these jet sizes are going to be different for a car that is primarily stock, as I have modified my engine a bit by installing a fairly radical cam (226/395 from 3tech), shaving the head .027", and eliminating the EGR system. Someone getting a 32/36 working on a purely stock engine would likely end up with different jetting, a little 'smaller' on everything I would guess, and likely some adjustment to the secondary circuit would be needed.

I hope this write-up helps other people trying to get their Weber 32/36 DGV dialed in, and any criticism is welcome. Three things that made this process infinitely more manageable were my Innovative MTX-L Air-Fuel ratio gauge, The book 'Weber Carburetors' by HP Books, and this excellent guide at sv3power.com.

_________________
87 Chevy Sprint 1.0L Carbureted.
3-Tech 226/395 Cam - Weber 32/36DGEV
The car I learned to drive a manual transmission and
took my driving test in. Was left as dead in the desert
for 10 years. Resurrected and modified to be my daily
driver and fun little toy. Ugly everywhere but under the hood!

This morning I realized that there was a flaw in the plumbing of my pcv valve causing a huge vacuum leak. Got the leak plugged and now everything across the board is a bit rich. I am going to start at square one again and re-jet, will update with new jet sizes afterward.

_________________
87 Chevy Sprint 1.0L Carbureted.
3-Tech 226/395 Cam - Weber 32/36DGEV
The car I learned to drive a manual transmission and
took my driving test in. Was left as dead in the desert
for 10 years. Resurrected and modified to be my daily
driver and fun little toy. Ugly everywhere but under the hood!

Still chasing vacuum leaks, have most of them ironed out, will likely try some adjustments to the jetting tomorrow. As I nail down each vacuum leak the mixture becomes more and more rich, so I am curious to see how drastic the changes are going to be.

_________________
87 Chevy Sprint 1.0L Carbureted.
3-Tech 226/395 Cam - Weber 32/36DGEV
The car I learned to drive a manual transmission and
took my driving test in. Was left as dead in the desert
for 10 years. Resurrected and modified to be my daily
driver and fun little toy. Ugly everywhere but under the hood!

I feel your pain. I am still tracking down vacuum leaks on my sprint. It's running lean now and can't figure out where it's leaking. I haven't done the conversion to weber yet but it's on my list of things to get. I suspect that the leak may be from the carb being loose it's self.

Also I am removing the whole EGR system. I don't need it and would just rather run the engine without it. I still get great gas mileage without it and since it's 25 years old the state of Texas doesn't do emissions anymore. So why spend the $100 to replace something I don't need?

Please keep us posted on how this is going. I plan on doing the conversion soon.

THANKS!

_________________
1987 Chevy Sprint base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (R.I.P.)
1986 Chevy Sprint base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (Totaled)
1994 Geo Metro base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (Had to sell)
1996 Geo Tracker 1.6l 16v 4cyl 1590cc (Daily)

I plugged all but one vacuum leak, and the last one is identified, that being the brake power booster. I ended up getting sick so I have been spending all my time lying on the couch feeling sorry for myself instead of working on the car .

After getting all the vacuum leaks plugged (and putting a cork in the brake booster line) I am finding that she is still a bit rich even with the 'smallest' jets from the redline kit I purchased. My next step is to order a couple sizes smaller main jets and a couple sizes larger air correctors so that I can get things tuned in.

The idle jet is also giving me a little grief in that it seems like a 55 is too small and a 50 is a little too big, so I am not too sure what I am going to do on that front, have considered buying a set of pin-drills and taking the 50 and gradually drilling it out a little bigger until things are dialed in. But for now, until this cold blows over, I am in slow motion and don't expect to do much.

For the last couple mornings the temperature has been down in the 40's(F), and I am finding that I need to do some real adjustment to the choke, as it does not want to stay running unless I baby it for 3 or 4 minutes. I definitely don't want to let this slide, as it does get cold here in northern nevada, so even when I get the choke adjusted in I expect a little stubbornness on those below zero mornings. Will likely be parking it in the garage at night and using a block heater to make things a little less painful.

It is a good thing I view this kind of stuff as a hobby and enjoy the process, otherwise I fear what little head is left on my head would have been ripped out by now

_________________
87 Chevy Sprint 1.0L Carbureted.
3-Tech 226/395 Cam - Weber 32/36DGEV
The car I learned to drive a manual transmission and
took my driving test in. Was left as dead in the desert
for 10 years. Resurrected and modified to be my daily
driver and fun little toy. Ugly everywhere but under the hood!

any progress?

I think these cars are amazing. They are super fun to drive and work on. Most people laugh at me when they see a 6'8" dude getting out of a Sub 2000lb car. And always tell me to get a bigger car. I tell them I get around 45mpg and that quickly shuts them up.
Anyway working on these cars can be stressful. Parts are getting hard to find and a lot of the info you have to dig up your-self or on here.

I plan on keeping my car till the day either I die or it dies. I think most owners of these cars feel the same way. They are just all around great cars and never got the respect the deserved.

Anyway. Keep your head up. You'll get it dialed in and running like a champ.

I want to see how this pans out. I'm talking with a guy who has a samurai intake with a weber on it and the price is better than right. All I'd have to do is re-jet it and clean it up.

_________________
1987 Chevy Sprint base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (R.I.P.)
1986 Chevy Sprint base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (Totaled)
1994 Geo Metro base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (Had to sell)
1996 Geo Tracker 1.6l 16v 4cyl 1590cc (Daily)

Sorry for the lack of updates

I managed to get all the vacuum leaks nailed down and found that the smallest jets in the redline high elevation kit are just a tiny bit large still, as everything is still a little rich across the board. However it is not TOO rich that I cannot drive it, and in-fact it is running really well right now. I have decided to run it like this for a few more hundred miles while the rings finish breaking in, as it is not rich to the point of fouling plugs or making the oil smell gassy or anything. The air-fuel gauge is showing in the high 11's at WOT, in the mid 12's under medium acceleration and around 13 at cruise.

The biggest problem I am having now is getting the thing to idle when starting cold, and it has been REAL cold here, to the tune of 10 F in the morning. I am considering converting the electric coke to manual as I have used all the advice and guides I could find on the web to get this thing adjusted and it simply will not stay idling on its own for the first 3 or 4 minutes when it is cold. The thing will run at high idle for 30 seconds or so, then the rpms will drop and it will die if I don't blip the throttle. After babysitting it for a minute or 2 then driving around the block real quick it will idle and finish warming up however.

Performance wise I cannot be happier with the carb, it has very nice throttle response, and I can definitely feel it in my butt when the secondaries open. The only downside is that so far I am getting merely 30 miles to the gallon or so, but all of my driving is stop and go in-town driving back and forth to work, and I seem to have a problem with keeping my foot out of the carb . All in all I am happy with my decision to do this modification.

_________________
87 Chevy Sprint 1.0L Carbureted.
3-Tech 226/395 Cam - Weber 32/36DGEV
The car I learned to drive a manual transmission and
took my driving test in. Was left as dead in the desert
for 10 years. Resurrected and modified to be my daily
driver and fun little toy. Ugly everywhere but under the hood!

I also looked into the carbs.I looked all over for a good set up and found nothing so I did 2 things,1st I sent my TB to Max bore once they were done I took it to Carb Tech they rebuilt it and put it on the flow bench.
The little sucker runs like a top and the response is great.Save yourself the headache have your TB rebuilt and see how it does then maybe send it off to max bore.The carb shop said the improvement once they rebuilt it would have been enough.
Now price on all of this 100.00 to max bore and 325.00 for the rebuild.
Not cheap but if you are for real with your build then you will go the extra mile.
Good luck to you

_________________
You can love your dog ..Just don't love your dog.!

Thanks for all the info and the update. I have an off-road buggy with the same motor and I want to do away with the old carb. I may go this route.

Just to clarify about the jetting are you saying the 50idle/200air/130main jetting combo was what you settled on and its still a little rich? As you describe the running conditions it sounds fine for our little buggy...

Also do you know what the stock jets were for the K601?

Thanks!!!

So I picked up a weber 32/36 today off the craigslist. Got it for $50 US. Was too good of a deal to pass up.

I'm am going to pick up the rest of the parts needed for the conversion over the following weeks. 1 adapter plate and a fuel pressure regulator. Which I noticed that there wasn't a FPR listed in you parts list. Maybe that could be the cause of the richness? From what I am to understand the Weber 32/36 runs best @ 3 to 3.5 psi and our cars run at 5 psi. Am I correct here?

Also is a wide band O2 necessary to do this conversion? Or is it just a tool to help you figure rich/lean mixture?

I'll be doing my conversion on a stock engine (sans EGR). And will be ordering jets as well. Maybe the smallest jets I can get off of webercarbsdirect.com or anywhere else I can find small ass jets.

Thanks for the right up it's been a big help. Maybe Adding some pictures of the set up would further help others to see what you got going. I'm a pretty visual person so pictures to me are a huge help.

_________________
1987 Chevy Sprint base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (R.I.P.)
1986 Chevy Sprint base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (Totaled)
1994 Geo Metro base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (Had to sell)
1996 Geo Tracker 1.6l 16v 4cyl 1590cc (Daily)

Any updates... I am also condering this option to replace my Aisin Carb.

_________________

Do you modify the intake manifold or use adapter plate to install it?

I just got one 32/36 and ordering the smallest jets to tune it.

well, im going for this as well.
ordering jets today.
primary
idle 50
main 120
air 170


secondary
idle 45
main 130 // 130 to rich less than 9:1!, trying 115.
air 130

based on the above post. im at 6300 feet eleation.
wish me luck!

Edit, some pics.
porting out to fit the 32 36 mm carb. had to widen (narrow) the rear mounting holes on the carb. the front screw will be unscrewed and jbwelded to fit the new carb.
also, had some problems with the linkages, but all better now. secondary opens up around half to 2/3 throttle.
reused the throttle cable mount and arm to bolt onto weber carb.

no regualtor. the stock carb came off of a m9 e30 bmw, and had 140 mains in the primanry and secondary. secondary jet was 50, so i have a few options. air correctors i cant remember. tho the secondary i order was 125, stamped 125, listed on package as 130 drilled.
hmm, not very happy about that. willl call redline and ask monday. wont be using them again. 7 usd for shipping with just a flat unpadded envlope is stupid, i almost lost a jet, the package was torn. never mind it was only 3.5 worth of shipping.

had to take the started off to remove the intake.

_________________
"muchos tanks, village destruidos"
"muchos sanks, menos submarinos"
"its the dreams that keep you alive"
-vernon wasser-

88 sprint, 4dr sold
87 turbo 2dr, never ran
86 sprint, 2dr current DD!

pulling out my fcking hair with this one.
45 pri idle, 95 primary main, 120 secondary
god damn lean spot never goes away. stupid just off idle, i go from 11:1 afr to 19:1 afr and i cant figuer it out. never mind that no one know jack sh!t about this carb. the mikuni vm30 i have had a nice manual .to explane everything, graphs, air flow charts, throttle position and what circuit does what.

webber 32 36? nope. nothing. what does the idle jets do? 'tip in, and tip out'. tip into to what, exactly?
and that damn flat spot, WHY is it there. its a lean spot, in between too over rich spots.
is it a problem with the throttle speed screw? the idle mixture? the fact that i can not get this engine to idle at less than 1500? is my ignition to retared, advanced? lost the damn cover, so i have no way to know what my timing is.
and why does the air corrector seem to shift the damn flat spot? and can the air corrector riched up the mixture? cus it for sure is not making any sence to lean it out at load/rpm goes up.
and can some one tell me what the hell the secondary idle jet does?
its that damn flat spot. 19:1 or more and i cant not find out why. just that it happens alot. is there a weber manual some where for the DGV series?

_________________
"muchos tanks, village destruidos"
"muchos sanks, menos submarinos"
"its the dreams that keep you alive"
-vernon wasser-

88 sprint, 4dr sold
87 turbo 2dr, never ran
86 sprint, 2dr current DD!