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PostPosted: Wed Aug 29, 2012 10:58 pm 
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Joined: Wed Aug 29, 2012 10:52 pm
Posts: 2
Location: San Diego, CA
I've got a G16 block I just bought..and machined (I've got over $600 in it already). The bummer >> I just got it back from machining and noticed a crack that starts in the bottom/center of #2 main journal..and travels straight down all the way to the cylinder sleeves. It's a straight, hair-line crack that goes all the way down.

If I understand the internal configuration of this block correctly, this shouldn't cause any mixing of the water and oil...and perhaps explains why there was no evidence of such mixing upon taking the damn thing apart.

I'm feeling like welding the damn crack and running the motor.

ANYONE ACTUALLY RUNNING A MOTOR WITH THIS APPARENTLY COMMON FLAW? ANY KNOWN, EFFECTIVE REPAIR FOR SUCH A THING?

HELP.. PLEASE.. or $600 goes right in the trash... dambit.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 29, 2012 11:15 pm 
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Joined: Sat Apr 24, 2004 9:48 am
Posts: 725
Location: Winnipeg
That crack will not allow the block to hold that main bearing properly, and will surely lead to failure...sooner or later. The fix is another block with no cracks


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 06, 2012 12:26 am 
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Joined: Wed Aug 29, 2012 10:52 pm
Posts: 2
Location: San Diego, CA
So nobody's ever just welded the crack and run it? Nobody's ever just buttoned it up and just run it for tens of thousands of miles with no problem? It's hard for me to believe that nobody's ever dealt with this...by some other method than simply chucking the block in the trash. Really?


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 07, 2012 1:50 am 
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Joined: Fri Feb 13, 2009 7:10 pm
Posts: 880
Location: Vancouver, WA
Pics?


Neither of my g13s or either of my 2 g16s has any kind of crack.


If its an actual crack.....its a paperweight.

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98 swift 1.6 16v swap
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97 3000gt vr4 e85, high comp, bolt ons
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 07, 2012 8:43 am 
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Joined: Tue Oct 19, 2010 9:16 am
Posts: 412
Location: sidney, nebraska
I'm working on a g10 and thought i had a cracked main cap but turned out to be casting mark.
Lightly sand it with fine paper. If it goes away easily thaen its a casting mark. If not then, CRAP.

But if you try to repair you need to consider; Is the main saddle still round or is it spread? Does the crack intersect the oil passage? Do you have the ability to preheat the block then control the cooling to prevent further stress and cracking?

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"If you think education is expensive, try ignorance." - Derek Bok


1990 geo metro 1.0 5 speed 3-door hatchback "herbie"
1990 geo metro 1.0 5 speed convertible "sportie"


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