TeamSwift

The Suzuki/Geo forums said you guys have more info on this so I joined up... haven't found much info reguarding anybody following through with this setup tho.

It's going in my 96 Geo Tracker. I'll keep this all related to the engine build.



ALL new sensors... so expensive.
3 angle valve job, 1 valve replaced
Head milled .015"
PnP
Head tanked/cleaned
Ported stock intake mani
Block decked
Block inspected
ARP head studs
ARP rod bolts
Mains decked and line honed
Cylinders bored for 75.5mm pistons
75.5mm YCP Vitara Pistons
D16z6 crankshaft (mains machined down to fit G16 block, flange holes plugged and drilled/tapped for Tracker flexplate, snout machined down nearly 1/2", keyway recut, machined down for oil pump to fit, machined for thrust bearing relocation)
Nitride treatment for the crank (soon, $170)
FJT D16 custom length rods (138.6332mm)
New oil pump
OEM size ACT Race bearings for the rods
Clevite thrust bearings
Sealed Power main bearings
Mazda e-bay cheapo turbo mani (will probably trash and make my own)
TB25 off a Saab, rebuilt (probably wont last LOL)
Ebay 'type-s' BOV. (best fake one according to the Honda guys haha)
Full gasket set
Waterpump
Gates Timing set


Chose the YCP/FJT setup as tons of D16 Honda guys run them with success in the 300-350whp range DD and some shop cars are even pushing the 500-550whp mark without issues (good tuning of course).

Nobody seams to care about previous posts of mine when I first started this, but... my rods and pistons came. 138.633mm long CC, compared to 139.6mm CC stock. Dropping the piston .9668mm but I had the head decked .015" prevoiusly (.381mm) so it's only a .585mm difference and the block is getting decked some so compression will be near stock or ever so slightly lower.


















Playing around with an idea:

I'm curious and watching.... I have a G16 block sitting in the barn waiting to someday undergo a honda crank / GT head conversion.

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Anyone who's been around children will tell you that they are in fact quite stupid. Many of them cannot even read.

I'm also following. Have a g16 I'm also sitting on for my swift.

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98 swift 1.6 16v swap
03 cobra bolt ons
97 3000gt vr4 e85, high comp, bolt ons
too many others to list

I'm on this to. What mazda did the manifold come from? That is going to be a wild tracker

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1995 Swift w/16V 4.39s, 3tech cam, Esteem t-body, Header, needs more.
1995 Gt Mustang "Boss Shinoda" package.
1999 F150 4x4 Supercharged
1967 Mustang 428 auto, never ending expensive project
1993 Civic si h22a, fell in my lap, couldn't resist!

Mazda Protege 5 with the 1.6l. Bought if from ebay but the head flange is warped and they only opened the runners up ~1/2 way where the outter ones intersect so it's going to flow like crap.

I flipped it to make it top mount and of course drilled my own holes in the flange.

Does anybody have the factory measurement of the deck height to the top of the piston? It looks like it's now a good 1mm+ sunk now... Lowered the compression some

April 29th:
Anyhow, I went to the machine shop and they have been working on it... slowly. Block cleaned, mains are line honed, block decked, and bored/honed. Crank main journals are all turned down, the rod journal that was spun has been prepped and welded up in prep for machineing down.

The other 3 rod journals are still at Honda OE spec so the ACT Race standard size D16 bearings that I got work! Oil pump end of crank is all good and measures out that it should fit the Tracker oil pump fine, snout is prepped to be cut down ~.500" and keyway cut for timing gear. They are moving the thrust bearing from the #3 location for the Tracker to the #4 location that Honda uses because the crank doesn't have any meat in the #3 spot to machine flat/bearing to run against and the #4 spot in the Tracker block is already rough machined from the factory so they only need to hit it ~.015" on each side and they'll fit.

#1 and #3 rod hit 2 random ridges in the bottom end. Shop is going to shave them flat but this isn't all that needs done in the bottom end. The rod bolts are ~.020" from the block and they feel safe with .060" as thats what most other engines call for. They are going to torque down the rod bolts, mark them where they go, then remove and shave off the tip/side of the head slightly to gain that clearance rather then grinding channels in the block that I feel could compromise its integrity.

May 17th:
Member on honda-tech sent me 6 factory bolts for the d16 flywheel so the machine shop could use them to plug the stock holes, shave off, then machine down that end of the crank so the rear main seal fits. The bolts were needed because they'll be machining down into them and then pressing a 'repair sleve' on as they call it so it is a smooth surface to prevent the seal from being possibly eaten.

Unsure if they machined the repaired rod journal down yet, but besides that, everything else is good to go! I'll post an update when everything is back in my hands along with hopefully a price breakdown... have a feeling I'm going to need to put another $800 into it bringing it up to a total of near $1,800 between top end and bottom end machine work total.

New oil pump is here along with timing kit. Experimenting with an adjustable Honda F22 cam gear if it measures up the same when it comes in. Going to get the shop to make an adaptor piece to make it bolt to the cam.

ANYBODY KNOW of an adjustable cam gear that will just bolt on?

Any of the metro/suzuki adjustable gears will.
http://www.pt2w.com/srd/index.php?main_ ... ucts_id=44

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'99 Metro Sedan Auto 4cyl, '91 Metro Vert 3/5, '91 Metro 5dr 3cyl auto

updates?

and thank you for shareing..i like the closed deck of the 1.6 for forced air...

Machine shop is waiting on the 'repair sleeve' to come in to press onto the flywheel end of the D16 crank. They machined it down so I could run the stock rear main seal, but when they did, they had to go partially into the D16 flywheel bolts. SO, to avoid that from eating the seal, they have a sleve coming.

Besides that, I just have to take my flexplate down to verify that their bolt pattern is correct and all is good! Besides spending near $400 on tires I just got for my car HAHA.

I am following this too !

We are building a NA high compression engine with the similar internals. Will post details once complete.

What rev limit do you propose to use ?

Unsure on rev limit. Engine will be broke in n/a on stock management while I save for megasquirt setup... from there, the options are endless.

Are you using any kind of girdle or strenghtening the bottom in any way ?

No room really. The rods literally hit some ridges in the bottom end that ended up being shaved off AND the bolts for the rods hit in others.

Just wish I would have found ANY info regarding a completed d16 crank swap, I would have sold the 2 door, got a 4 door, and swapped a 6 cylinder in.

any progress on this?

In September of 2011 my crank was 'finished'. The machine shop didn't follow instructions and ruined it by drilling the new holes half/half in crank metal and the filled welds from the Honda bolt pattern. They then threaded them and this caused the welds (that were very porous) to split. They also hand chamfered the end, and failed to put a 'seal saver' on the end.

Having near $1,000 invested in the crank alone, I was less then impressed and more then aggravated. I made it clear that they were going to do another crank correctly.

I sourced what was said to be a D16z6 crank around thanksgiving for $80, upon receiving, it's oil passages were smaller and only had 1 per journal, so it was a standard crank. Seller only refunded $60 and told me to sell it to get the other $20.

Then I finally found another around Christmas and it is correct and has been micropolished in the past so it is in great condition and still at/near factory spec. I JUST got the end 3/4 machined for the flywheel so the OE Honda bolt holes would be opened so MY welding guy can do the welding (heat with torch, then tig weld) compared to the machine shops mig welding on a cold crank without properly cleaning it.

Other then them screwing up wen it came to those holes, it was useable, rods cleared the block, bearing surfaces were machined to be perfect, etc.


Pics:

Just found this thread!

If you had a second chance would you use a custom made Honda pattern flywheel with smaller flange area of the suzuki?
I just think its such a risk to weld in this area.

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Suzuki bring back cheap lightweight cars but this time in RWD

Yes. I'd have a new rear main seal carrier made to fit the Honda rear main and then just get the flywheel/flexplate redrilled.

whats happened to your project now? it was looking so good!

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Suzuki bring back cheap lightweight cars but this time in RWD

Everything is back from the machine shop sitting in the garage waiting for me to stop being lazy

whats been done to remedy past issues? its hard to not be lazy with the previous dramas but its a great truck once sorted nothing will come close to it

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Suzuki bring back cheap lightweight cars but this time in RWD

After going through the headache of dealing with Honda formus again which think their parts are worth something/king-shit, I purchased what was said to be a d16z6 crank for $125 shipped as a new core. Received it and it was plain d16 and seller only gave me a partial refund and PayPal wouldn't retrieve rest (still have the crank).

Months pass after a few different topics on various forums and getting a Honda involved and I sourced another crank for a similar price. That one turned out to be correct.


Even after dropping the 'new' crank off and block with all lower end internals, it drug on for months again and I felt like there was nothing I could do except email and call weekly for updates.

When I went down after being told it was done, they hadn't shortened the snout or recut the keyway. This took another 3 weeks.



Part of being lazy is related to I no longer had the job I had when I started this project. With putting the suspension/bumper/winch/wheels/tires from my Tracker onto a 4 door Sidekick that I fixed up and resold for a $1,300 profit after all invested, including my parts, I didn't source Toyota/FJ axles for under it. It's sitting in the back yard with dryrotted(2 flat) tires from the Sidekick.