TeamSwift

The issue is, it wouldn't be simply bolted on, as it would not have any form of filtration system within it. For example if it were to be used in conjunction with a cold air intake system (which I guess I could also build & sell for it…) installed under the hood. One with a separate filter element.
As far as quality goes, I’m putting my name to these, so yes of coarse they will be of high quality. The cost is still yet to be determined though, and I am still in the prototyping stage, so I may have a ways to go before production. Basically I need to know if there would be a market for them before I build the moulds for a larger scale assembly.

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95% of the canadian population say "Oh shit!" before hitting the ditch.
The other 5% are good 'ol Alberta boys saying "Hear, hold my beer... NOW WATCH THIS!!!".


May not always be pretty, but Rednecks Git'R'Done Good!

Oh I understand now I thought you were proposing a high velocity intake manifold. I doubt any device attached upsteam of the throttle body would have a positive effect on engine performance. But what do I know.

Please, that’s like saying everything past the exhaust valve doesn’t affect performance...
Read up on velocity stacks and you’ll see why I’m interested in them as a performance item.

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95% of the canadian population say "Oh shit!" before hitting the ditch.
The other 5% are good 'ol Alberta boys saying "Hear, hold my beer... NOW WATCH THIS!!!".


May not always be pretty, but Rednecks Git'R'Done Good!

I'd be interested in any preformance parts for my 3cyl! Let me know where I can mail the cash

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1989 MR2 - 20v ST & C56 5 speed, MS&EDIS
1993 Grand Cherokee - 5.2 V8, intake, exhaust, and 31"s

how about a performance shift package for the auto's maybe some different gears so they aren't out straight on the freeway? or a form of ram air ( a functional hood scoop diy kit ) dunno... just throwin out some sujestions

well, you can f*** with your valve body & flow controllers a bit to make it shift better/harder... I personally wouldn't touch that one though.

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95% of the canadian population say "Oh shit!" before hitting the ditch.
The other 5% are good 'ol Alberta boys saying "Hear, hold my beer... NOW WATCH THIS!!!".


May not always be pretty, but Rednecks Git'R'Done Good!

In my experience, 3 gears just isn't enough for a 3-cylinder Metro (vert, at least). That alone is the biggest reason the next one I buy will be a 5-speed.

gave up on fixing up the 3 speed, in the process of converting it over to a fivespeed , getting there... slowly

heh... heh... why oh why didn't i read such comments about the auto before buying mine?

I'd like to see a 12:1 "fast burn" option with a high volume alcohol capable fuel pump and high flow injector, with adjustable pressure regulator. Some of us like to burn corn, ; for the 1 liter engine. (I'm half way there as it is).


John

i hate my auto, i have a 94 5dr metro 3cyl auto and it sucks. and it is f****** slow!

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nucking futs!

my car is blood thirsty!

GIT-R-DONE

how can i get one of your cams for my 93 geo metro 1.0.

Hi, I'm probably the newest member of the forum (but probably not the youngest, by a long way) so please go easy on me until I find my way around.

I'm in UK and have a Liege, which is an old fashioned, rear wheel drive, two seater, 1950's theme/lookalike sports car. It's used for general fun on road and off road for trials/hillclimbing. These cars were originally designed to use a Reliant 3 wheeler, 850 cc engine and gearbox but these have proved to provide less than we need in the way of power and reliability.

We Liege'ers (or at least some of us, there are only 60 of these cars in existence) are now converting our cars to use the G10 1.0 SOHC engine. The UK version of this engine appears to put out the quoted 52 bhp and from some experimental work done so far, this appears to be limited mainly by the standard inlet manifold. My engine is from a late 2003 registered Swift.

I'm junking the standard inlet manifold and injection completely and fitting triple, side-draught, motorcycle throttle bodies via an adapter plate.

At the moment I intend to fit a standard, cast iron exhaust manifold from the earlier car because the later one with a "cat" is too bulky for our installation and the downpipe will foul the chassis rail (I have obtained a brand new one). I don't intend to use a "cat" on the car unless it's bad on emissions and fails the MOT test. I will obviously match and open this manifold up where necessary. I may convert to a custom made tubular 3 into 1 in stainless manifold later if this proves over-restrictive. The car already has a custom made, 2 inch exhaust system in stainless with a straight through "silencer" (ha!) box and the cast manifold will be coupled up to this by a specialist pal of mine.

The distributor based ignition will not be used; I'm fitting a programmable ECU and trigger wheel system; this will also drive the fuel injectors.

I intend to have the existing cam reground / upgraded here in UK by Newman, to "fast road" spec.
I've read about the benefits of fitting the "advanced from standard" cam drive wheel and would be interested in buying one (bearing in mind, as I said, I'm in UK).

Has anyone used a similar setup and if so, what sort of output might I expect?
What is the safe rev limit of these engines (hydraulic valve lifters) before further modifications need to be carried out?
There is an issue with too much engine torque rock due to engine bay limitations. I've seen some photos of solid polyurethane engine mounts. Where could I get these?

Thanks in advance for any help given.

Hi mate!

Im in Chesterfield and also wondering about manifolds/using bike carbs (was thinking off a triumph due to being 3 cylinder)

I may have an exhaust header flange spare so will sell at cost price if your interested?

Really want a little more out of the 1.0 but how??

Also how much is the cam regrind?

Thanks,

Ryan

Hi Ryan, I don't need the exhaust flange thanks, not now I have the new manifold. The quote for the Newman cam was £105 plus postage and vat. I'm using early Triumph Triple TBs. A converter plate is needed, to bolt these on. I've had a drawing made up and will be having it CNCd from 3 x 1 inch ally in the very near future. Cheers, Paul.

Hi Paul,

Piper Want £84.00 + VAT + Postage to regrind the cams to fast road...

Maybe this is something you should look into?

Also please take a picture of the converter when made plus a price please.

Thanks Ryan

lookingfor a midrange canshaft, header, and ram air intake

It's a couple of years since my previous post! The engine conversion (Reliant 850 to Suzuki G10) was delayed. I rebuilt the old engine so I could get it done in time to use the car for an overseas trip.

Having finally committed myself to the Suzuki (it's in the chassis), I've since decided to go down a slightly different route. I have been working on a supercharger setup and I'm almost there with it but I''ve just been told that the conrods and pistons might not be up to it.

I've been offered some brand new G13B rods in forged H section steel. I'm not certain that they fit the G10A engine (2003 car) and I'm not in a position to measure my own engine (no point strippping it down if it's not going to work).

Having checked my "Chilton" manual, which covers both the G10 and the G13 cars, I now understand that the 1.3 is basically a 1.0 with an extra cylinder.

However, I need to confirm that:
(A) the rods are the same overall length.
(B) the small end diameters are the same.
(C) the big end diameters are the same.

Any help gratefully received!

As I am to understand. The stroke for both engines are the same. 77mm. But bore 73.9mm on g10 and 74mm g13A. G13b had a 75.5mm stroke if I'm not mistaken.

So you would need to bore up slightly. And I think the 1.3 pistons are floating not pressed like the g10 1.0. cant remember exact specs off the top of my head. Someone will chime in here if I am wrong.

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1987 Chevy Sprint base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (R.I.P.)
1986 Chevy Sprint base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (Totaled)
1994 Geo Metro base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (Had to sell)
1996 Geo Tracker 1.6l 16v 4cyl 1590cc (Daily)

The stroke is the difference between the G10 and G13's, except the 1980's 1324cc car engine which was the same bore and stroke as the G10. The 8V motors and the G10 have the same rod.

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Contact 3tech: [email protected]

Many thanks!

Would like to see more precise MegaSquirt Tune files for: 93 Octane, Economy/Lean, and E85.

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"If it doesnt fit, use a bigger hammer"
"Cheaper, Faster, Better, Pick Any Two"
http://actfast1234.wix.com/itsmycar

- 89 Daihatsu Charade CLX 1.0L MPFI 3cyl 5spd (*SOLD*)
- 01 VW Beetle GLS 1.8L Turbo (*SOLD*)
- 63 Datsun NL320 Sport Truck 4x4 (Converted by Me & Son)
- 04 GMC Yukon (Fam Hauler)
- 92 Suzuki JR50 (Fun Tiny Dirt Bike)
- 84 Dodge B350 Royal High-Top Van (Heavy Item Hauler)
- 92/94 Geo Metro's (Rebuilt & Sold)

I'm currently working on two different options to see which i prefer. One is centrifugal supercharger crank driven. The other which is the one in progress atm is running 3x 1100cc bike carbs. The engine itself has already got a lightened and balanced bottom end, ported and flowed head, bigger valves and a piper race cam. I just want a bit more power as typically with a N/A 3cyl, it bogs down a bit still from standstill

My G10 with it's supercharger is up and running. It produces a fairly low 80 hp but the torque is very impressive.

80 hp is almost twice the power the car had before; it used to be powered by a Reliant 850.

G10A in Liege with supercharger: