TeamSwift

I don't see how heating up the fuel will help you that much. The stock suzuki system allready has a warm air feed, that aims to keep the air exiting the plenum chamber at about 30C (cant remember the exact figure it is in the WSM).

Some people actualy freeze their fuel tanks in order to boost the octane rating of their fuel

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-Twisty

or we drive to Tescos and buy there new 99oct fuel which is cheaper that optimaxi!!!

Claire
xXx

Will you show resources to prove/reinforce that?

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<img src="http://tellico.off-road.com/wwwthreads_uploads/1438321-lolsroyce.gif">

It's a common trick amoung MPGers. I could probably find resources of testimonials, but would that change anyone's mind? (If it's on the internet, it must be true!).

If you heat up your fuel listen for any pre-ignition. If you want to be slick, insulate the copper line (not from the hot water thought) and put a surface temp sensor on it. See what kind of temps your getting. It'll will also help if you have to trouble shoot vapor lock or pinging problems.

Jay W
505/287 Dakota

http://www.teamswift.net/viewtopic.php? ... +injection

This is All I will say on the Matter!

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Metroless and looking for another already!!

Thanks Kento, but I'm still unsure if I gained any economy with my water/alcohol injection.

spt-3x1.0,

If you are interested in trying my water injection I will be more than happy to send you some hose and the inline restrictor orifice. You will have to pick up a gang valve at your local pet store or aquarium store. Just PM me if interested.

As for better fuel economy you could switch to synthetic oil. It does make a difference. I used it in a 1998 Dodge Dakota V-6 once and picked up 2 MPG.

Other tips to try:
Properly inflated tires
Vacuum Gauge (try to maintain the highest reading when driving)
Weight reduction
Free flowing air filter
Free flowing exhaust

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M3----"M" body "3" cylinders.
Now Turbo'd

"M3 like the BMW?"
"No, like the Gillette razor."

When I think about it more it does make sense. Any energy you add to the fuel before it enters the engine will also add energy to the combustion process.

I'd just be a bit nervous about heating up volitile, explosive liquids and that any gains may be lost by having to back off the timing advance.

How much fuel does a car use per second on the highway? About 1.5ml/s?

I dont know the density or specific heat capacity, lets just assume 2J/mm/degC

So you warm up your fuel 30C, so thats 1.5x2x30=90J/s=90W of power. The difference between switching yor headlights from full to dipped beam?

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-Twisty

Yeah, but they're assuming your not doing something goofy like forcing the fuel temp up to 180degs! Also keep in mind modern FI runs at about 45-90psi. My manual says the TBI system only runs at about 15psi. (higher pressure = less vapor lock change)

I've seen claims of 10-15%. I bought a cute little heat exchanger that I might try to splice fuel and coolent lines into, but with the registration problems I've been having the days of my Geo may be limited.

I actually haven't heard of anybody pinging after doing a fuel heating mod, but it just makes sense to me that it effectivally lowers octane.

Jay W
505/287 Dakota

I remember reading a thread about running the radiator for the auto model in the manual swift but not using the part that cools the transmission fluid. Could one just pass fuel through it instead.

One could also run the fuel line brazed along the exhaust but that really would get me worried

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-Twisty

Maybe you could use one of those heated fuel filters for diesels.

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M3----"M" body "3" cylinders.
Now Turbo'd

"M3 like the BMW?"
"No, like the Gillette razor."

They make atomizers to add to your inline fuel hoses to make the fuel burn better. To esentially polorize the fuel to burn better. They use magnets to polorize the fuel. They " apparently" add horse power. However, I had one on my mustang and it improved gas milage. But did not give horse power. Well not enough to notice on a V8 You could always try it out. Might make a difference on the imports though.

Crankcase evacuation using the exhaust manifold may increase mpg as well as hp. Definitely not smog legal though...

Running the PCV straight to the exhaust won't be emissions legal because the cat isn't designed to deal with oil vapors. The cat cleans combustion byproducts, not engine lubricants. Worse yet, the oil may burn inside the cat causing an unneccesary and detectable increase in hydrocarbon output. I would suspect that it may eventually cause contamination and failure of the cat from prolonged use.

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Read this and it should help you understand why water injection is a good idea. M3, I'm not saying you don't know what you're talking about or didn't do it right, but my feeling is that if you didn't see at least a little improvement, then maybe there was something more you could have done? Did you lean out the fuel a bit to account for the fact that you no longer need fuel dumping to cool the mixture out? Maybe a little more water was necessary? I don't know, just throwing out a few ideas. From reading the link I posted, it really sounds to me that water is much more efficient than extra fuel.

You might also benefit from WI if you increase the compression ratio while you're at it.

Get a +10 cam gear from 3tech Performance (Superfl1y).... it will help a lot if you watch your speed (the best single mod you can make to a 1.0). For the PCV, if you look in my gallery its a $3 setup (actually under that...). It should not impact smog like running it through the cat. Also, while your in my gallery, look @ my intake, easier breathing will not hurt fuel economy either.

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'94 Suzuki Swift g10 3tech stuff:Port&Polish,225/355 cam,11:1 CR, SS valves,+10 Cam gear,underdrive; K&N intake; LTLSU's Custom racing springs with Monroe struts (2" lower front, 0.5" lower back); 185/55/R14 Kumho Ecsta SPT tires on Eagle 040 rims; Stripped out interior and removed AC system

rarson,

I am sure I picked up some MPG from it. The main idea for me experimenting with the H20 was to keep EGT's cool and supress any detonation. If there was a gain in MPG that was a plus. As for "leaning out" the mixture, the ECU already does that for me. Due to using washer fluid that has a 35% mix of methanol, the O2 sensor sees the methanol as added fuel causing it to read richer. In return, the ECU leans out the fuel. This is evident on my A/F ratio gauge.

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M3----"M" body "3" cylinders.
Now Turbo'd

"M3 like the BMW?"
"No, like the Gillette razor."

The fuel heater seems to be a very good and totally inexpensive idea!

Question:
Has anybody ever constructed a water/fuel heat-exchanger and could we see a photo or a suggestion for a practical solution?

It probably won't cost much to make and almost all of us can benefit from it.
Helmut

I haven't found any liquid to liquid heat exchangers that we cheap. I finally found a small one on ebay for $25, but most were going $75+. Yet to be installed. Wrapping copper fuel line tubing around heater hoses seems to be the popular method.

Jay W
505/287 Dakota

Hey Zurech would you like to elaborate on your pvc setup. I looked at your gallery but after reading the description I was all
Josh

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"Always remember that in the equation for drag, velocity is squared."

1993 Geo Metro Hatchback
1996 Impala SS
1980 Yamaha Maxim 650

http://www.teamswift.net/album_page.php?pic_id=2856

It is called a "Breather" and that store is a nation wide chain. They cost literally 2-3 dollars. I also used some clamps to hold the tube in place. I did this since my intake has no spot for it to be on the pcv system, not for any better idle or power gain. If you want those, get an underdrive from Superf1y, and the +10 cam gear from him aswell (pm him or click the 3tech banner). If you mod the intake to something similar to my own, then I can understand the need for a breather.

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'94 Suzuki Swift g10 3tech stuff:Port&Polish,225/355 cam,11:1 CR, SS valves,+10 Cam gear,underdrive; K&N intake; LTLSU's Custom racing springs with Monroe struts (2" lower front, 0.5" lower back); 185/55/R14 Kumho Ecsta SPT tires on Eagle 040 rims; Stripped out interior and removed AC system