TeamSwift

So. sprint has a coolant leak coming from the line off the turbo to the cooling pipe. Is that a part i can order or just basic hose? anyone know the size i would need if so?

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1990 faded red turbo firefly project car
1990 sidekick 3" lift 31" mt's
2006 YZF600 screamer. my summer toy/daily driver.

Probably just the rubber hose.
Use high quality replacement hose 5/16" specified for coolant and trim to fit.
You may want to clean the nipple when replacing , they usually have a fair
amount of corrosion built up and the hose clamp as well.
I prefer the OE style spring hose clamp, if not then use a full band clamp
designed for fuel injection, stay away from the worm drive clamps.

If it's not the hose, then it could be the fitting on the turbo. It could be
rusted through or bad seal.

Remember to replace the other hoses, if this one's leaking the other is
not far behind. Start from the coolant pipe and replace all feed and return
rubber lines to the turbo.

i have the metal pipes if you need them

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it doesent have to be surrounded by water to be a island and dont forget it's a 3cyl Blow,Suck,Bang

I'm replacing all the rubber hose portions of the turbo coolant lines.

QUESTION: Is there a rubber hose buried down in the manifold/turbo/shielding? If NO, I see (3) rubber hoses that need replaced: one on that circuit to the intake manifold barb by the top radiator hose, and two on the circuit to the coolant pipe.

NOTE: If there is a "buried" rubber hose, that would be the most sadistic thing I ever saw on a car...

...and as far as 5/16" heater hose, they almost laugh when you ask for it.

I bought this silicone hose a few years back, it has worked well for me. This seller had it in other colors
in 5/16, but now only black, plenty of other sellers with other colors now.
Do not use worm drive clamps, you must use spring clamps, or better yet fuel injection clamps.
Use a wobble socket on a locking 1/4 drive handle to tighten the FI clamps, or a standard socket
on a flex shaft 1/4 " drive handle works well also.

#33 is a bitch, but if you get a pry bar in there you can bend the coolant pipe on the turbo slightly
for a little more room for the clamp, I learned this much later. Also the newer X-type high leverage
long handle needlenose from gearwrench or crescent with the 45° angled jaws make removing the
spring clamps much easier, as less movement is required to open the jaws fully than with standard
type handles without the X-mechanism.

You can delete #28 as well and use one piece hose for #32 for simplicity. Use a hose guard
protector in places where it may chafe. Hose is robust and sturdy and stays flexible and supple, though colored
hose will fade with time and temperature. It is not however, resistant to sharp edges, protect
it in areas prone to rubbing or scuffing.

Best of luck.

Just replaced the one under the turbo with silicone heater hose.

It is not impossible, and marginally not sadistically deigned if you remove the oil filter and the large 3/4"-ish oil drain hose from the turbo to the oil pan.

Yes, the X-link long nose would work nicely, but I had some long handle needle nose that worked on the vertical pointing upward hose end.

What did work nicely A LOT in this "replace all hoses" job was the 90* end long needle nose pliers from Harbor Freight. VERY useful.