TeamSwift

My son's Car.......
1988 chevy sprint 4dr
it was a freebie
been driving it for almost 3 yrs rattle and all
he wore the clutch out so I have decided to UX the motor and trans
with a spare I have rat holed for this very reason
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Here's a video let me know what you think the noise is from after the ux I might tear into it to see what the noise from
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........jv&s
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5oEPhonZd8Q[album][album][/album][/album]
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The Rat's Hole
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Valves badly out of adjustment? Mine sounds like that all the time, flat tappet cam shaft. Noisy valve train. Check the oil too.ensure there is enough oil at idle.

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"muchos tanks, village destruidos"
"muchos sanks, menos submarinos"
"its the dreams that keep you alive"
-vernon wasser-

88 sprint, 4dr sold
87 turbo 2dr, never ran
86 sprint, 2dr current DD!

sounds like valves and a hogged out crank key

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it doesent have to be surrounded by water to be a island and dont forget it's a 3cyl Blow,Suck,Bang

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I would normally agree about the valve chatter but this rattle is low behind the water pump
My guess is rist pin
did a compression check (hot) on the motor coming out
#1 185,
#2 200,
#3 190,
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prep the spare motor inspected T-Belt parted trans although the disc was used wear was not bad %60
put in a new disc because of driver
The boy goes through 5 Clutches 3 motors & 3 different cars
Daughter..still one her 1st Motor/Car/Clutch
10 yrs.?
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It sounds to me more like noise from the valvetrain. Wouldn't a bad wrist pin be noisier under load rather than idle?

Also, a failing timing belt tensioner can make this same kind of dull cyclical thudding noise.

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well now you might be on to something
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The noise has been going on for 3 yrs most noticeable at first start up after it has been sitting for a few days or after you unload while driving (decelerating)with no load as in coasting to a stop in gear once you push clutch in it fades out....
But I never ever thought The Idler pully I'll pull the motor later today (life permitting ) and check that out
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Would bet money on pins on Pistons knocking

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1985 chevy sprint 5speed 1.0 Mk1 (Blue). 1999 Geo metro 5speed 1.0 (Silver). 2003 XL-7 2.7l V6 AUTO (White). 2005 XL-7 2.7L V6 AUTO (Cobalt Blue). 1996 mercury cougar 4.6 auto (Goldish?). New to the family 1998 VW new Bettle 2.0 5speed (Black) Restord <--- (hers)<---- Gone to a new home. Replaced with 2003 Turbo 1.8T 6speed (black) ... In One 1986 chevy sprint ER (White) In line for a restore <---None runner <---(parts). Thats 7... So I'm under a hood alot... Why? Kuzz we love cars!

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I with ya it's been rattl'n for 3 yrs
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I did pull the idler and it was solid with no noise from it
I had to stop on investigating were the noise is
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"The Rattler"
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Well this is my story and I'm sticking to it.......
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I was totally delusional thinking I could dig out a spare motor tha tI have shelved 5 yrs ago that had good compression 175-180 with 185,000 miles on & set it into a 28yr old car and it would be a go'r.
NOT
pulled old motor .put a new disc and T-belt installed spare motor Ever mount and sensor shot
27 hours later and it's a smoker..............
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Pull the head clean,Seals,Lap valves.... 3.5 hours
pop the the piston out to clean and....... No spare ring set 30.5 hours and I'm stuck no rings.!
It will be a week before I get back to it because I have to go back to work
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#3 leaker and seal, were very brittle
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I'll get back to "The Rattler" ( in the wheelbarrow) after I get this car back on the road.....jv&s
STDBY
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just got the rings I needed to put this together
Just need time
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When installing Ring make sure the ring glans are clean you can use the old ring to clean the grove
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you can see this piston oil ring (lowest ring on piston) is stuck in no give it came from a car that smoked

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cleaning piston
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Installing new Ring on piston make sure you have the Makers mark on the up side (the little "N")
UP
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After Rings installed
looking at the cylinder walls found no ridge but they were smooth need to break that glaze to help new ring seal

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GLAZE

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scuff up cylinders used WD40 then 30 wt oil the Wd40 cuts gaze agresive top off with oil to finish
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after done wipe out (Clean) all cylinders with fresh oil and clean rags
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setting in piston with clean oil bath
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Torque wrench time
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Now the Oh Shit moment
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The rod bearing had a bit of wear so I changed them
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with new Bearing from the white box
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I lubed and put rod bearing in....... torquing them down the engine got tighter and tighter to 24lb the engine would not turn locked solid.

Removed new bearing found out they were over sized with a stamp .025
Nothing on the box and they were new in shrink rap
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old rod bearing on the right
New oversized on the left
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Lost 3 hrs
6 hours later....
Now I can move on to the head
Total hours on this rebuilt 33.5 hrs...No joke
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...........jv&s
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way thing been going I just couldn't let that front crank seal be
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cleaning the head bolt and head gasket surfaces with degreaser
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The Head gasket is on backwards (in Pic)
no reason just were I layed it when i snap the picture
I made it right before it went together


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torq down the head 20- 35 -58 Lb final
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reinstall the timing belt
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SORRY NOT CORRECT
Gaping the valves COLD .017 intake .022 exhaust
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actually 6 intake 8 exhaust
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Put a fork in it...!
............................... It runs well Break in miles 55
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6 and 8.

MK1 engines run fine if you set the valves at 6 and 8.

Easy to remember, same as the old Chevy V8's.

Plus, they run a lot quieter.

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Thanks phil for proof reading my post
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you are correct about the valve gap I 006 & E 008..(.NOT 17 - 22)
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Here is the page from the factory service manual
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this is were I went WRONG


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RIGHT
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The Video
Before Pacapo turned me around
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After adjusted valves properly
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Here's hoping for success this is my sons car and i had to press it back into service with 55 break-in
miles tonight it has 76 miles on this rebuild
I'm trying to stay positive about this car it's just he's not a car guy... at all
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This rebuild took me a total of 42.5 hrs
replaced all the sensors and all the mounts and the drivers short shaft
and the bearings snafu
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it shouldn't taken that long
it should only take around 8-10 hrs
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So let me ask this if anyone is out there has had the golden opportunity to have rebuild
a MK1 Chevy Sprint 84-88 G1.0
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What your best time for
Ring,Hone, Bearing, Seals,
(HEAD) Lap Valves,Renew Seals,
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...........jv&s
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6 hours

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it doesent have to be surrounded by water to be a island and dont forget it's a 3cyl Blow,Suck,Bang

A belated "noise sounds like piston to me" and man, did you see your coil arcing???

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that what i'm thinking too
wont know till i pull that pan off
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Coil Arking.?.... Yes
I pulled the spark plug wire's one by one to see if i could change the noise ....Find out what hole was make more or less noise when you pull a lead off the spark plug the coil ark's....
My little test didn't work the noise didn't get louder or quieter

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I have only re-ringed one of these once, many years ago. it took a long time....probably more than a week, just to find the right pistons,(first ones they sent were single ring type), then a few days work to get it running again. If I recall, pistons were about 4 times the price of a 4" Chevy V8 piston, or maybe it was the rings$$$$ Anyway, I think I got the wrong head gasket on it, because the cam cover would fill up with oil after a few miles and get forced down the guides; you could tell by the major smoke screen in the rear view mirror....couldn't even see the highway behind me. At the time, I did not know what was causing the blockage for the oil return and thought that the crankcase pressure was coming up the tiny oil drain back holes and was keeping the oil from returning to the pan, so I pulled the dip stick to vent the blow-by and that was enough to let the oil drain back. So I probably had the wrong head gasket or put it on upside down. I made a side vent off the dipstick tube and drove it for another year before it got so banged up that my daughter was embarrassed to ride in it any more, and sold it.
I have a few Turbo Sprints now, including one I picked up partially rebuilt, needing pistons and rings to get it back together....I think the PO sold it to me because he couldn't find any. I see you found some for your sons car; do you have a source? I think this Block has been bored oversize though...it is a bare block all taped up in a plastic bag, like the rebuilt head that came with it. I would have to mic the bore.

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MK1 turbo
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economizer check your PM's
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I've always had good luck with these (NPR) Rings set and there good priced
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/360188207436?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT
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well I didn't pull the "Rattler' apart...(STDBY)
It has been 6 month
Two oil changes and 6000 miles since the rebuild
it Time for valve adjustment
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So far so good
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.......jv&s
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