TeamSwift

Had to park the car now for overhaul and use my spare care instead... 3 problems now:

1)
I now and then had to fill up coolant, more than normal.

Finally found a small leakage, some rust dirt at the location.

On the G13A engine, there is a pipe running alongside the engine. It has to connections in one end: One end goes to the radiator, but there is a smaller pipe welded to it that goes to the heater core in the coupe.

Now, at the other end of the pipe, it runs into the water pump. There is leaking coolant here, also some rust.
Leakage is around the pipe and where it enters the water pump.

Any hints of how to fix it? What parts do I need to get hold of?

Have parked the car for restoration, other issues are:

-Upper door hinge has no support in the body, there is a 3x3cm hole...
-Fender is completely rusted downside.

Guess I am out of luck getting hold of fenders for MK1....?

If the coolant pipe isn't too rusted out all you need to do is pull it out and replace the o-ring that is on the end where it goes into the water pump housing.

Ken.........

Ah, as simple as that, will try to remove the pipe then.

Thanks!

Pipe is fastened only with a M10 bolt... pulled the piped out. O-ring defect as you said. Pipe rusted at the end, but OK.

Did not have a new O ring, dealer takes forever, so scrubbed the area clean and applied silicone gasket from tube as temp fix. Cured for two days before refilling. Looks good, mating surface is 1cm long and tight so silicone have a chance to hold tight.

No leakage, but need to get hold of a spare O ring in case of future failure.

Refilled with 50/50 coolant liquid/water.

No wonder door was loose, water have leaked into the screws.





A 12mm stainless steel plate is machined and inserted, temporary hold into place by a rope. New 8mm treads.




Two component class fiber enforced filler is used to make the surface even.






The cooling leakage is resolved:



I did not have a new gasket, so as a temp fix I cleaned the area and dried it, then applied silicone sealant along the gasket.
Seems to hold as the pipe goes in 10mm and creates a long friction area.

Fender is a total disaster, so bottom part has to be cut off and a new piece has to be made. Did not manage to source new fenders, it has been removed from the inventory of my parts supplier. I used large wooden pieces in a vice cut in shape in order to create the curve and hammer the edges.




Final result: Fenders given some rattle paint: Primer, paint, clear coat.

Bottom part of fender is replaced with aluminum.



Also removed some rust and primed the area behind the fenders with 2 layers of rust paint.

This was A LOT of work... but door works now and rust is gone.

A car is pretty useless if the driver door does not work properly!

The steel pipe with O ring had holes under the gasket, so took off a pipe from my spare engine.
The temp fix with silicone was a total disaster.

The o-ring was in poor condition on the "new" pipe, so I bought a new O ring gasket 26,57x3,53mm NBR. Used vaseline and shoved it into place, perfect fit!

A dollar solved my problem at the local machine shop

Would like to get hold of a new pipe though for my spare engine that I took it from...

I am glad that you were able to reattach the door, but I am a bit worried if the stainless steel backing plate is only held in place with fiberglass applied over the rusty metal in the doorframe.

No worries there, the back plate is much much larger than the hole and goes upwards and downwards quite some distance. The plate is 12mm thick compared to 4mm originally.

The rust was removed and remanding treated with Owatrol oil, then 2 layers of rust paint. So 3 layers of rust protection to stop the rust.

My welding skills are poor so I used quite some time on this solution.