Well, I reseated three grounding points on the left side of the car. (And cleaned up the drivers door switch while I was at it.)
Measured the defrost element's resistance and it is 3.4 ohms.
Measured the total resistance through the element and hatch ground and it read 7.6 ohms. So I bypassed the hatch ground altogether to no avail.
I even disconnected the defrost and hooked up a light to the + & - leads and it lit up!
Reattach the leads to the defrost element and measured the voltage at the + lead and it read .35 volts.
Rechecked the previously rebuilt switch (it's a very simple toggle like knuckles wrote about) to make sure there is continuity when depressed between the red and yellow wires and it works.
Nope. Defroster and indicator lights still don't work when pressed.
I never like electronics during school. But the way I see it, the defrost side of the switch gets a single source of 12v from the red wire. When the circuit is closed it feeds the yellow wire and consequently the defrost, and the circuit board has a copper trace that goes to the Indicator light then its own ground at the nearby chassis. Which is the common ground or negative pole for everything. So why would the indicator light not come on and the voltage read less than 1 volt at the back?
Now. The only thing that is not working are the two little lights that come on when you turn the marker lights on. They are burnt out. Could that be the cause? Can't be since they are on a different circuit.
The last simple attempt is to swap the switch between the two cars and if that doesn't work then I have to chase the feed from the fuse to the socket to the switch.
At least While I was messing with all this, I took the cluster out cleaned it and remove the little green condoms off the lights. And replaced the burnt out light for the heater controls. Now I can see the gauges at night. There was some positive to end the night.
And my wife says, "you should just go buy a new car." She's thinking about the LC500
