TeamSwift

i was about to fix and replace my exhaust system for a SS 2" pipe, but then i looked up under the hood and found i have a lot of oil leak on my engine so priorites changed. im gonna have a summer project which is rebuilding my 1.3L engine SOHC 8V. so i am reading stufff regarding about it. honestly speaking, i havent done anything that in-depth procedure before but after reading some of the tutorials here, i think i can manage to at least assemble and disassemble the engine (just dont know if i can fire it up succesfully). well, i have read some articles about rebuilding engines that "you have to prime the oil pump and engine prior to starting it the first time after a complete rebuild". is this true to our engines?

melling engine parts youtube channel

i cant seem to find some available pictures here and other forum the "oil pressure switch port" in our engine ; or the oil pump itself or maybe im just not reading/comprehending the whole rebuild how-to-tip. secondly, if theres oil pump and we need to prime it, how and what kind of "priming tool" we suppose to be using? is it some kind of an expensive tool or we can actually build one from our existing hand tools?

thanks

the answer:


credit to metroschultz

Oh good god...

There is no priming tool for these engines.

You spin the engine over a few times without starting it to build up the oil pressure, and you'll notice the change in how it's cranking once you have oil pressure. It'll suddenly start spinning over much easier. All you have to do is use a decent rebuild lube while your doing assembly, to provide the lubrication it needs during this period. As well I suggest doing this with the spark plugs out, to ease the job on the starter and to prevent any excessive pressures on the rotating assemblies you might have forgotten to lube.

Ponzy you seriously need to go and buy a service manual off of fleabay, it'll make your life muuuuch easier.

_________________
My cars:

J. McBean: '98 Suzuki Swift 1.3L 16v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk5" Made in Canada
The Mini Rattler: '94 Suzuki Swift .993L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk3" Made in Canada *The Winter Beater*
B. Berry: '90 Chevrolet Turbo Sprint 1.0L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk2" Made in Japan

I got 18MPG in a 3cyl with a 5 speed manual 4dr, '93 Metro!

Here's an extra trick:

I just completed a rebuild... Cranked the motor over with the plugs out and the oil pump simply wouldn't prime.

A couple small bursts of air from the air compressor (regulator set to 20psi) and problem solved.

Err... How long did you crank the motor? Was the oil level filled properly? Where did you put the air pressure?

I just used a turbo pump that had sat for years in a box, bone dry, and it didn't take more than 30 seconds of free wheeling for it to pull 5w30 and push it through the entire engine. It then sat for months again while I rebuilt the engine and it took just about the same amount of time.

I only crank for 10-15 seconds at a shot with 30-60 seconds inbetween for cooling of the starter. It also lets the battery charger catch up since I don't stuff it into boost mode, just simple 10 or 15amp cranking. Also I tend to overfill just a tad to allow for the oil that will fill all of the air space in the galleys and the oil filter.

_________________
My cars:

J. McBean: '98 Suzuki Swift 1.3L 16v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk5" Made in Canada
The Mini Rattler: '94 Suzuki Swift .993L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk3" Made in Canada *The Winter Beater*
B. Berry: '90 Chevrolet Turbo Sprint 1.0L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk2" Made in Japan

I got 18MPG in a 3cyl with a 5 speed manual 4dr, '93 Metro!

Crank case was full, straight 30 wt. Fresh re-build. Oil pump was re-used (new unit from last rebuild 3k miles ago, long story) and had been sitting wrapped up in a box for a year or more. with sparkplugs removed I cranked the motor over repeatedly for 5-10 seconds. I then dropped the oil filter to see if I was getting anything (nope), cranked several more times with the oil filter removed, nothing. At this point I was getting very worried. I turned the regulator on my air compressor down to 10 or 20 psi, removed the dipstick and using a rubber tipped blow tool gave the crankcase a few brief shots of air. After that, the second I hit the key I had oil.

30wt is kinda thick, and isn't reccomended for our cars, that could be why it was having a hard time pulling it up.

5w30 is sort of the catch all oil for these cars.

_________________
My cars:

J. McBean: '98 Suzuki Swift 1.3L 16v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk5" Made in Canada
The Mini Rattler: '94 Suzuki Swift .993L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk3" Made in Canada *The Winter Beater*
B. Berry: '90 Chevrolet Turbo Sprint 1.0L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk2" Made in Japan

I got 18MPG in a 3cyl with a 5 speed manual 4dr, '93 Metro!

break in oil... I always run straight conventional 30 wt for the first tank of fuel. wrong or right, its what I do. after the first tank, I change to muli-weight and cut the filter to inspect. then if there aren't any surprises in the first filter I let it go 3k miles. if there seems to be a good bit of material or some color to toe specs of metal (copper in particular) I will do another oil change/inspection at the end of the next oil change.

Sound like the guy who was swearing at me when I refused to dump an entire container of Lucas Break-In oil and use 20w50 in my engine. I told him that's a fast way to wear an engine like it's already gone through 80,000km on those bearings.

Now 30wt isn't the same as that, but I'd honestly suggest for these Jap engines that you put a magnetic pan heater on it for an hour before trying to crank so that the oil is warm and will flow easier, a lot easier.

Just a suggestion to make them engines last longer.

_________________
My cars:

J. McBean: '98 Suzuki Swift 1.3L 16v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk5" Made in Canada
The Mini Rattler: '94 Suzuki Swift .993L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk3" Made in Canada *The Winter Beater*
B. Berry: '90 Chevrolet Turbo Sprint 1.0L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk2" Made in Japan

I got 18MPG in a 3cyl with a 5 speed manual 4dr, '93 Metro!