An actual laser
level has some advantages, but beware using a laser pointer strapped to something square--the laser may not be parallel to the pointer casing.
There are a lot of ways to do this, but I did notice that the previous posts don't mention that you really need your wheels to be on a level surface before you start.
Here are some more tips (not responsible for the anyone's failure to manage risk appropriately--if you don't do this right there is the potential to damage your car or get caught under it if it doesn't stay put):
I am not sure whether the previous posts are recommending that you align the car on the floor or on jackstands, but toe will change as the car is weighted, so doing the alignment on jackstands isn't ideal. If you do it with the car resting on the floor, it's hard to get to the nuts on the retainer nuts on the tie rods, especially if your car is lowered. Further, the car should really be on a level surface, and most garages aren't.
I start with 4 concrete paving blocks to help get a little space to work:
Then you can use floor tiles to make each platform level:
Note: The extra particle board is there because I ran out of floor tile, and it's a funny shape because I had those pieces lying around and didn't feel like cutting them. This arrangement also helps to get corner weights, as you will see shortly.
I normally use vinyl composite tile, which is usually less than $1 per tile, but the only home improvement place near me now doesn't carry it so I had to use self adhesive tile instead--a bonus is that I found I could stick the tiles needed for each corner of the car together and label them for easy reuse.
Once you have the floor leveled, you can grease another pair of tiles to make sliders for the wheels so that the suspension is not binding when you let it down on the the platforms from the jack, and the wheels will turn with minimal resistance when you make adjustments.
Careful. If you didn't get the leveling right, your car could slide right off the platforms at this point! See earlier warning.
Once the car is safely on the platforms you can run fishing line between two rods (I used shelving brackets) so that the lines are parallel and just a bit wider than the car. Because the car is on sliders, you can actually push the car back and forth as well as the line holders until everything is square. Did I mention that this is also best done with new tires inflated to the pressure you intend to use?
FYI, the front track on a Swift is slightly wider than the rear, so you want to get even measurements to the hub on both sides, but they won't be the same on each end. Wheels with center caps are very helpful.
Now you can measure from the string to the rim on each side for all four wheels. If the distance is greater at the front of the rim, you have toe in. If it is greater at the back, you have toe out. Adjust to your requirements.
I run a mm or so of toe out up front to increase turn in, and a mm or so toe in at the back to increase stability, but I am also running an oversize rear sway bar and no bar on the front.
Corner weights:
There isn't much reason to do this unless you have coilovers and can do something about it, but another advantage of the above described set up is that you can replace the concrete blocks one at a time with scales and weigh each corner of the car. Full disclosure: This should work in theory but didn't work so well for me using the scales shown in the pictures. They are supposed to be 300lb scales, but didn't measure consistently near their limits and/or the particle board piece I was using to spread the weight wasn't rigid enough. I couldn't get repeatable results--you mileage may vary, but this should work with good scales:
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http://www.teamswift.net/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=57216
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: bounce the fender , roll the car back and forth 
everything front and back was checked out 3 times. just MY weird metro and tires. 
