TeamSwift

I did a topic search and did not see a discussion on the best oil filter to use on Metro's. On one hand I think the filter that says it filters out the smallest size particles would clean the oil best. On the other hand I think if that makes it the most restrictive filter then it would lower the oil pressure more than less restrictive filters. Not only does the filter media differ by brand but some manufacturers make different filters that will fit the same engine (like Fram extra guard, double guard, tough guard, extended guard). Then they talk about single pass efficiency and double pass efficiency. I have the 1.3L engine. Does anybody have any ideas on this?

Fram = Crap

Wix, K&N, Amsoil, Purolator... are all good ones.

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My cars:

J. McBean: '98 Suzuki Swift 1.3L 16v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk5" Made in Canada
The Mini Rattler: '94 Suzuki Swift .993L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk3" Made in Canada *The Winter Beater*
B. Berry: '90 Chevrolet Turbo Sprint 1.0L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk2" Made in Japan

I got 18MPG in a 3cyl with a 5 speed manual 4dr, '93 Metro!

Our community had a great discussion about oil filters a short while ago.
viewtopic.php?f=14&t=40101 'the great filter debate'

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1995 Firefly 1.3 SOHC 8VALVE MANUAL
2000 Firefly 1.3 SOHC 16VALVE AUTO. Goals: full restoration, achieve stock MPG and HP or higher, finished look should be 'stealthy' and unassuming. Engine will need to be rebuilt later on to restore compression levels.

I love Baldwin filters. I use them on everything I own.

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• EcoMudder - Geo Metro Mudder
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• High Stall 3200 RPM Converter
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• 27" Kenda Executioner 6 Ply ATV tires

The knizefamily.net review blasts Fram filters stating "The rubber anti-drainback valve seals against the cardboard and frequently leaks, causing dirty oil to drain back into the pan." Evidently if I understand some of the comments correctly this can be a cause of valve tap on cold starts. My valve tapping on cold starts started 3 weeks ago. It was the morning after I did an oil change and put in a Fram filter. I'm changing this filter tommorrow!

Ok this is weird but I took off the Fram filter and screwed on a Wix and almost all of the valve tap noise went away within 30 seconds of turning on the engine. I didn't even change the oil as it was only in the engine for about 2 weeks. I'm about 100 miles into the JohnnyMullet seafoam treatment so maybe that has something to do with it. I still have a little tap but you have to listen for it.

Fram filter are junk,they do not flow oil very well when the motors cold.Because they have a paper element for there filter.I always use Hastings (Baldwin) filters they use a glass impregnated element that flows way more oil when the motors cold and filter dirt far better.Wix also uses this same type filter element.Hasting does have a higher filtering capacity than Wix.

Coming from my Hyundai's that actually have a TSB specifically calling out Fram filters, I stick with OEM. I always used OEM on the Elantra, Accent and the Grand Vitara for every oil change. The Swift I already have 2 spare OEM's on the shelf in the garage waiting.

With that said, if I can't get an OEM, I will use a Wix (Napa Gold). They are really good filters, but like anything aftermarket may not be the best filter for the application 100% of the time. OEM is.

I have to say I've been using the K/N oil filters for a bit and I kinda like them. the housing is super strong, you can tighten them more because of the 1" nut welded to them (and can also use a ratchet to get them out rather than struggle with filter straps or pliers). not trying to be a salesman, but switched to synthetic blend and a K/N oil filter on my 95 3L camry (which has over 400G km on it) and in owning it since last spring it runs twice as good as it even did, like new by now.

PM link to Jonny Mullet seafoam method? I read your not supposed to drive very far with sea foam in the engine...

I just use a mobile1 filter for the metros because they are readily available. But I might start ordering Amsoil filters next purchase.

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