TeamSwift

The little Metro I bought had a cylinder misfire and after diagnosing the problem, I found no compression in one of the 3 cylinders and low compression in #2. This means the head needs pulled to see the problem. First thing is to take pictures of all the vacuum lines and hoses so when you get to putting it together, you have a reference point.
The most common issue with these 3 Cylinder engines for a dead cylinder in burnt exhaust valves from either timing or clogged EGR ports.

This guide can be used for all 3 Cylinder Suzuki engines.

Get the car in a suitable work area.


Set engine so Cyl #1 is at top dead center (TDC) or line it up w/belt marks.(TDC).
Disconnect battery.
Drain the oil and coolant. (17mm drain plug)
Remove upper rad hose from engine side. (squeeze clamp)
Remove throttle cable and all attached vacuum lines. (12MM locknut & squeeze clamps)
Mark plugs and wires and remove wires, cap and rotor. (8MM bolts)
Mark distributor and remove. (T40 or 12MM)
Remove the air cleaner housing and tube. (10MM bolt and nut)
Loosen the alternator bolts (one on top and 2 below) and remove belt. (12MM bolts)

Remove the water pump pulley. (10MM bolts)
Remove the crank pulley. (5 8mm bolts - don't remove center bolt)

Remove timing belt cover. (8 10MM bolts and loom holders)
Check and correct timing marks and note rotation.
Loosen tensioner and remove belt and mark belt rotation if re-using it. (12MM bolt)

Inspect water pump and replace if questionable (wanna do this again?)
Remove exhaust manifold bolts and use heat if tight & pull away from head. (10MM bolts and nuts)

Remove the 4 valve cover nuts and strike the seals off. (10 MM)

Remove the head bolts with a breaker bar from outside in. (8 10MM 12 point bolts)
Get a buddy to lift up head & intake assy and remove vacuum lines, grounds, fuel lines, etc)
Look on cylinder head for the small oil check valve and don't loose it!
Place head in a clean work area with lots of room to work.

Put rags in cylinder holes and clean mating surface on head, pistons & exhaust manifold.

Clean head surface and clean out the EGR port.
Remove EGR valve and clean all ports.
Remove the camshaft bolts and cam and remove the gear and replace seal. (6 10MM bolts/studs - 17MM cam bolt)
Remove the lifters put in order.
Use a valve spring compressor with adapter and remove the valves (keep parts ordered and use your buddy)

Clean surfaces and lap in all the valves (intake & exhaust) with lapping compound and re-install.

Re-install lifters and camshaft. (use torque specs from a manual)
Double check all of your work and gasket mating surfaces.

Remove intake from head and replace gasket. (optional)
Get your buddy to help you re-install the head and double check all connections!
Torque all 8 head bolts to specs and order with info from manual.
Install a new timing belt (or used one like a dummy) and check timing marks.
Re-assemble the same way you took it apart and please double check vacuum lines since there is a lot of them.
Clear all DTC if you forgot to disconnect battery.
Fill oil and coolant and fire it up!
Now you may have to set the timing, so reference your manual!
Let the car get to operating temperature and check for leaks and burp the coolant.
Test drive and watch the coolant temp since an air pocket may occur.
Now that you are a certified Suzuki mechanic, get a job!

I hope you enjoyed my guide!

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• EcoMudder - Geo Metro Mudder
• Project page
• Build Video
• 1991 4 Door Truck Conversion
• Modified Suzuki 1.0L Engine
• High Stall 3200 RPM Converter
• Auto Trans with Welded Differential
• Custom Exhaust and Intake System
• 6" Suspension Lift & Weight Reduction
• 27" Kenda Executioner 6 Ply ATV tires

Nice guide Johnny Mullet, clearer pictures would have made it better.

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Love the way the West coast feels.

Thanks for a great post. Sure makes things easier.

Your like the TV shows. It seems so fast and easy.

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94 Swift GTi 5spd
94 3cyl automatic 4 door

Did you use the persian blue to check your valve sealing surfaces?

I know they can look really good, but they can be on the edge of needing the seats reground, or even valves replaced/ground.

I only ask because I see you used the polishing compound to clean them up... If I missed it...

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My cars:

J. McBean: '98 Suzuki Swift 1.3L 16v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk5" Made in Canada
The Mini Rattler: '94 Suzuki Swift .993L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk3" Made in Canada *The Winter Beater*
B. Berry: '90 Chevrolet Turbo Sprint 1.0L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk2" Made in Japan

I got 18MPG in a 3cyl with a 5 speed manual 4dr, '93 Metro!

I actually used the 'ol Redneck water trick

Before tearing down the head, I had it upside down on the bench with the cam removed so all valves were closed. I pour water into each combustion chamber to find my bad valves. Same thing when complete.

I have 210 compression across the line.

_________________

• EcoMudder - Geo Metro Mudder
• Project page
• Build Video
• 1991 4 Door Truck Conversion
• Modified Suzuki 1.0L Engine
• High Stall 3200 RPM Converter
• Auto Trans with Welded Differential
• Custom Exhaust and Intake System
• 6" Suspension Lift & Weight Reduction
• 27" Kenda Executioner 6 Ply ATV tires

OOooooo...

Redneck tricks are what I call, Farmerizing.

Nifty test, I'll have to remember that one.

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My cars:

J. McBean: '98 Suzuki Swift 1.3L 16v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk5" Made in Canada
The Mini Rattler: '94 Suzuki Swift .993L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk3" Made in Canada *The Winter Beater*
B. Berry: '90 Chevrolet Turbo Sprint 1.0L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk2" Made in Japan

I got 18MPG in a 3cyl with a 5 speed manual 4dr, '93 Metro!

I've gotten mixed opinions on valve lapping. I'm buying new exhaust valves and installing everything myself. A few websites suggests that lapping actually weakens the seats. Even Dart doesn't recommend lapping your valves. How long does lapped valves last?

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94 Swift GTi 5spd
94 3cyl automatic 4 door

There is a huge difference in "Valve Grinding" and "Valve Lapping". The lapping process simply makes sure the valves seal 360 degrees around the mating surface. "Grinding" the valve seats is done when there is damage or warpage around the valve seating area.

These little Suzuki motors are pretty tough in my opinion and I am 100% sure there will be no issues with the proper repair method I used. I could have even ground the valves and milled the head according to the observations I made on this engine during the tear-down.

_________________

• EcoMudder - Geo Metro Mudder
• Project page
• Build Video
• 1991 4 Door Truck Conversion
• Modified Suzuki 1.0L Engine
• High Stall 3200 RPM Converter
• Auto Trans with Welded Differential
• Custom Exhaust and Intake System
• 6" Suspension Lift & Weight Reduction
• 27" Kenda Executioner 6 Ply ATV tires

so if there isn't any significant wear, I should be good?

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94 Swift GTi 5spd
94 3cyl automatic 4 door

Correct! I suggest at least a light lapping like I did to ensure valve sealing. No need to grind unless damaged.

_________________

• EcoMudder - Geo Metro Mudder
• Project page
• Build Video
• 1991 4 Door Truck Conversion
• Modified Suzuki 1.0L Engine
• High Stall 3200 RPM Converter
• Auto Trans with Welded Differential
• Custom Exhaust and Intake System
• 6" Suspension Lift & Weight Reduction
• 27" Kenda Executioner 6 Ply ATV tires

What he said,

You just want to give the new Valves a proper sealing surface, a quick lap job gives the virgin surface of the valve a somewhat fresh sealing area so they wear into each other properly. Just like even though you don't have to bore out an engine, when you install new rings, you deglaze the cylinder walls, and shame on anyone who doesn't.

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My cars:

J. McBean: '98 Suzuki Swift 1.3L 16v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk5" Made in Canada
The Mini Rattler: '94 Suzuki Swift .993L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk3" Made in Canada *The Winter Beater*
B. Berry: '90 Chevrolet Turbo Sprint 1.0L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk2" Made in Japan

I got 18MPG in a 3cyl with a 5 speed manual 4dr, '93 Metro!

good deal. J Mullet, how'd you make the valve spring adapter?

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94 Swift GTi 5spd
94 3cyl automatic 4 door

I took a 1" piece of conduit and cut it about 7" long then used a die grinder to make the opening to get to the keepers. I must warn you that these keepers on the valves are the smallest keeper I ever seen on anything including my lawnmower. I got large hands and it was a chore even with help holding a bright flashlight in the hole while I try to get them keepers in there.

_________________

• EcoMudder - Geo Metro Mudder
• Project page
• Build Video
• 1991 4 Door Truck Conversion
• Modified Suzuki 1.0L Engine
• High Stall 3200 RPM Converter
• Auto Trans with Welded Differential
• Custom Exhaust and Intake System
• 6" Suspension Lift & Weight Reduction
• 27" Kenda Executioner 6 Ply ATV tires

Nice write up. Very helpful.

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1988 chevy sprint 1.0 n/a

Wow, you've got all sorts of good info on here! Do you recomend taking the head to a shop to check for warping? Or did you just sand it down a bit yourself at home?

These heads are built pretty tough and it would probably crack before warping in my opinion. I knew the problem was burnt valves, so the head did not go to a machine shop. I did use a starightedge and feeler gauges to check for warping and looked carefully for any cracks.

I saved a lot of money by doing the valve work myself and trusting the work I performed. This was by far, the easiest valve job I have done on any car.

I wish my camera could of shot better photos, but at least you get the general idea.

_________________

• EcoMudder - Geo Metro Mudder
• Project page
• Build Video
• 1991 4 Door Truck Conversion
• Modified Suzuki 1.0L Engine
• High Stall 3200 RPM Converter
• Auto Trans with Welded Differential
• Custom Exhaust and Intake System
• 6" Suspension Lift & Weight Reduction
• 27" Kenda Executioner 6 Ply ATV tires

really great guide, i'm wishin' for a how-to but with MK5 four cylinder.

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1995 Firefly 1.3 SOHC 8VALVE MANUAL
2000 Firefly 1.3 SOHC 16VALVE AUTO. Goals: full restoration, achieve stock MPG and HP or higher, finished look should be 'stealthy' and unassuming. Engine will need to be rebuilt later on to restore compression levels.

Should be fairly similar. They are based off the same design.

I actually finished (half-way) putting mine back together. I have everything hooked up except the alternator, water pump, a/c and timing belt cover. I primed it but turning the crankshaft pulley over a few times and sealed the leaks from the camshaft seal covers on both ends. Well, I go to crank it and it doesn't fire. It gives a loping sound when cranking. I know I lined up the marks correctly but it sounds like it is 180 degrees off. Also, I notice the timing belt has slack in it. Enough for it to walk off the pulleys. How tight should it be?

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94 Swift GTi 5spd
94 3cyl automatic 4 door

bumping up to get the questioned answered about bad timing and how to correct this before you reassemble it all. Should you have a timing light?

The timing belt on a 1995+ is very similar to the older models except the cam gear and timing marks are different. Before ever tearing an engine down, you should set #1 at top dead center on the compression stroke. You can remove the valve cover to verify this by looking at the valves. They should both be closed. The marks on the crank and cam should then be in position unless the car broke a belt or jumped time of course.

Setting the ignition timing is done after getting it all together. You can do this with a timing light after jumping the diag connector (underhood sticker shows this) and this connector is either by the driver's strut tower (pre-1998) or behind the glovebox (1998+).

_________________

• EcoMudder - Geo Metro Mudder
• Project page
• Build Video
• 1991 4 Door Truck Conversion
• Modified Suzuki 1.0L Engine
• High Stall 3200 RPM Converter
• Auto Trans with Welded Differential
• Custom Exhaust and Intake System
• 6" Suspension Lift & Weight Reduction
• 27" Kenda Executioner 6 Ply ATV tires