TeamSwift

I had to clean out the EGR passges on my 1995 G10 Metro recently. I decided to take some pics and share my experience. I hope you find it useful. Click on each pic for larger versions.


This is the exhaust manifold. We need to get this out of the way.


This is a closeup of the right hand (driver's) side of the exhaust manifold. See the bulge on the end where I have the red dot? That feeds exhaust gasses into the EGR passage that runs through the head.


This shot is looking down at where the intake manifold attaches to the head. For perspective, you can see the oil filler cap at the very bottom of the picture.


Here's a closeup of the shot above. The red dots indicate the EGR passage through the intake manifold. This would obviously be tricky to clean out without removing the intake manifold. I was lucky enough to not need to do that. See how the EGR passages turns down and to the right? We can't see it clearly because of that bracket that's in the way, so let's take a look at the next picture.


This is looking at the backside of EGR portion of the intake manifold. The EGR valve is in the upper right corner of this picture. Just forward (toward the front of the car) of the EGR valve is the bracket (seen here attached with a nut and a bolt) that was in our way in the previous picture. Now you can see how the EGR passage in the intake manifold turns toward the driver's side of the car and jogs downward a bit.


And here's the EGR valve. It's held on by two bolts, and it has two vacuum lines running to it.


Here's the removed EGR valve. The pic doesn't show enough detail, but the valve is not clogged. It did have some carbon deposits on the lower tapered passage, but it was easily cleaned out. I scraped the deposits away with a small flathead screwdriver, then blew through the lower hole with some compressed air until the air came out clean through the upper passage.


Here's where the EGR valve mounts to the intake manifold. The left passage is where the exhaust gasses come from, and the right passage leads into the intake. The intake passage was dirty but not blocked at all, so I left it alone. The exhaust passage was only a little clogged. I scraped it clean using the same small flathead screwdriver I used to clean the EGR valve.

Remove the nuts and bolts that hold on the exhaust manifold (a total of 7 on my G10), slide the manifold toward the front of the car, then lower it until the downpipe rests on the ground. You may need to unplug your oxygen sensor if the wires don't have enough slack in them. Here's what you'll see:


Here's the EGR passage that goes through the head underneath the distributor area. This portion of the EGR passage was completely clogged. I used a long flathead screwdriver as a sort of hand-powered drill to get the bulk of the deposits out. This took a little over five minutes.


I took an old wire clothes hanger and made myself a reaming tool. I cut out the straight part, then added a small j-bend to one end. I made sure to not make the J part bigger than the EGR passage. I chucked it into my Makita and ran it through the EGR passage a few times. It got a little extra gunk out.


I also used my reamer to clean out the EGR portion of the exhaust manifold. You can see the hook I made in the coat hanger in the second pic above.


I then blew compressed air through the EGR passage both from the front/exhaust end and the rear/intake end.

That's it! Put it back together, making sure to use new gaskets if yours get torn.

Extra notes about my particular experience:

Only the portion of the EGR passage closest to the exhaust manifold was completely clogged. The rest of the passage, toward the rear of the engine/intake side, didn't have much carbon buildup at all. This was nice, since it meant I didn't have to hassle with the bent portion of the EGR passage inside the intake manifold. YMMV. I also disconnected the battery before I began to clear the CEL. I was getting a Code 53 (yes, 53 - my car is OBD I), which indicates a problem with the EGR system.

I did the same thing on mine today. Only I didn't use a drill, I used carb cleaner ( don't get this sh!t on your paint ) I also cleaned out the egr passage to the intake mani as well. My passages were clogged from the mani thru the head and to the intake. it madea NASTY mess when I cleaned it out. All in end I can spray carb cleaner thru the egr passage and to the intake w/o any problems now. I hope it helps my exhaust temps out a good bit.

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-- Don --
The G10, Suzukis way of natural traction control.

This is my hooptie, there are many like it but this one is mine. With out my hooptie I am walking and without me my hooptie is broken down.

That's a beautifully constructed tutorial, thanks!

You can also use a small bottle brush , similar to test tube brushes, for cleaning the passages. Just don't put them back in the kitchen drawer when you are done with them.

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1993 Swift 3cyl 5spd

When I did mine, I couldn't get anything to clean the area where the passage is curved sharply. So after doing the main part with a drill bit and blowing what I could out with my air compressor. I finished by tying a knot on the end of some 1/8" string, then I pushed the knot in the egr passage near the exhaust. I used my blow gun to blow it thru and out the passage on the intake manifold. It blew thru very easily. After it is out the other side, I tied a seiries of knots in a section of the string that could be pulled back and forth thru the passage by pulling on the ends of the string. This gave me assurance that the passage was clean all the way thru.

That's pretty clever.

I just went through the clogged egr valve syndrome and maybe this can be useful to others. After searching and reading many posts with lots of ideas this is what worked for me. My problem was the intake side and i read in a post to take some plastic coated aircraft cable (mine was stolen from the dog's cable) and use a drill to spin much like a roto rooter. I tried this but the cable would just twist up so I cut a piece of flexible plastic tubing slightly larger than the cable which was about 3/16" and slid the cable through it leaving about 4" sticking out of the drill end after sliding cable and tubing into egr intake passage and hitting blockage, the tubing doesn't need to hit blockage just to the first bend but the cable does or it won't be long enough the 4" measurement may vary depending where blockage is. Another detail I almost forgot is to strip a little plastic off the aircraft cable end to have some metal strands showing to chew up the deposit. This worked for me you'll be able to tell when it's clean by starting motor and placing finger over intake passage and feeling a pretty good amount of suction keep in mind the exhaust side will be blowing out hot if it's clean. If the motor is cold the exhaust won't be that hot. This should work on exhaust side too. Just remove exhaust manifold clean out passage in manifold then do the same to passage in the block

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My $400 98 Metro 1.0 gets me there cheap!!!!!!!!!!!! My 68 AMX 390 Go Pack gets me there FAST!!!!!!!!!!

When I had my head apart, I just pulled the passageways with 2 part steelie epoxy and removed the mess of EGR related equipment to the right of the TB. I also plugged the holes on the intake manifold as well

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93 Geo Metro - 3Tech 10 Degree Pulley, UDP, Foam Intake, Two Brothers Racing Muffler

I'm going to try this. its a good post!

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Pass the cat...

thanks, awsome tips, in the middle of doing it now.

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Want your car pinstriped? http://www.2-stix.com
94' geo 3 cyl 5 speed
98' toyota 4runner
03' toyota tundra
06' crf450

How did all of your car's respond after cleaning the EGR ports out ?

How does EGR effect fuel economy ?

Why not eliminate the EGR system like the one dude above did ??

in california you have to run it to pass smog.
its lets the car breath and work like it should.
even better, is you wont burn up your motor, as that is why we all are cleaning out egr's we burned up an exhaust valve and our motors are apart. look at my pictures.

i also used an old motor cycle throtel cabel and grabed it with my drill chuck to spin it inside the passage in the intake path. worked well in that curving madness. lots of shit up there.

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Want your car pinstriped? http://www.2-stix.com
94' geo 3 cyl 5 speed
98' toyota 4runner
03' toyota tundra
06' crf450

I have noticed that this seems to be a very common thread with these engines. Burnt exhaust valves.

So apparently blocked EGR passages is what causes this problem then correct ?

How does running HOT exhaust gases back thru the intake COOL down the exhaust valves anyways ??

The hot exhaust gas dilutes the air fuel mixture so there's less to burn, sort of like reducing the compression ratio. It only operates at middle throttle openings though, like when you're cruising. At idle or heavy throttle, it shuts down. I don't think EGR is the cause of burned exhaust valves though, it's just one factor (of about ten) contributing. Early 49 state cars didn't have EGR at all and they actually seem to have longer valve life. With EGR came the 5 degree before ignition timing. At high speeds this late timing causes the valve to open while the mixture is still burning. Result is very high exhaust valve temperatures and lots of soot. Advance your timing to ten degrees before, get more of the energy out of the gas you're burning and make life easier on the valves. You'll have to move it back for emissions tests, the point of EGR and the late timing is to reduce NOx emissions by reducing combustion chamber temperature.

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91 Pontiac Firefly Turbo
10 Suzuki Kizashi


Alcohol, Tobacco, and Firearms
Should be the name of a convenience store, not a government agency

This EGR problem is perhaps the worst flaw in this engine design, especially the impossibly twisted passages on the intake side. I had the head off to replace 2 burned exhaust valves. The problem comes, in my view, that the passage runs straight thru the engine head, where it is cooled by the engine coolant, causing soot condensation. Other vehicles have a steel EGR tube external to the engine -- no problems.

Two things I did differently than anyone above: 1) I used a long drill bit to completely drill oversize the straight passage thru the engine head. I am aware of no problem from doing that. 2) To ream the extremely encrusted gunk out, I used a length of bicycle brake cable housing (spiral steel) and spread out the end to make a real roto-rooter tip.

The EGR systems on these cars need inspecting and a squirt of carb cleaner followed with compressed air at periodic intervals! It should be in the owner's manual, but it isn't.

woodie is right. the egr is a secondary cause from the running to hot motor.

alfu, i did the same things with the cabel in the intake.

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Want your car pinstriped? http://www.2-stix.com
94' geo 3 cyl 5 speed
98' toyota 4runner
03' toyota tundra
06' crf450

Good Tips Woodie.

Sooooo.... How did all of your car's respond after cleaning the EGR ports out ?

How does EGR effect fuel economy ?

Why not eliminate the EGR system like the one dude above did ?

On reflection, the EGR passageway clogging may not be due to poor design of the engine (tube running thru cylinder head) as much as a result of high oil use (oil leaking past piston rings and down valve guides). If oil is getting into the combustion chamber, it is going to soot up your EGR. A healthy engine leaves a brown tailpipe, not a black one. High oil use should be corrected quickly because solid oil carbon deposits can build up on exhaust valve faces, causing them not to seal and burning them within 10K -20K miles.1

**You can buy this steel "rope" / Cable at home depot (cheap) in a couple of different sizes... Get 2-3 feet, spread one end so the
steel strands are fanned out , stick the other end in a drill chuck and "roto-rooter" dem passages! Strong but flexible..
Ras

Checkout a flexible drill bit designed to cut through carbon. http://www.califautotech.com.

Gary

A big thank you to oconice for the great EGR pics on the Jul 28, '06 post--it is still helping people!

History: '93 Geo, 1 L, Man, 3 cyl, OBD1,TWC, Calif, 117K Replaced CAT, but high NOx at smog test, cleaned out clogged EGR valve and about 6" of the intake portal, and 3" of the exhaust portal, using a speedo cable and drill -- I couldn't get the cable to go in any further. I cleaned PCV, and MOD valve and solenoid valve tests passed. Note that car eats oil...

PROGRESS REPORT + QUESTIONS:

I purchased 1/8" and 3/16" coated galvanized cables, but I had difficulty getting them any further than about 3" from the EGR exhaust portal, and no further than about 6" up the intake portal. I reviewed many suggestions, and in the morning I'm going to follow BillP's advice, and remove about 12" of the vinyl covering --I had only removed about 3" of it. Also, I will try oiling it, per BillP's suggestion.
If this does not work, can I get some more suggestions? Some people had used bicycle brake cable (housing?) and motorcycle throttle cable. Can you give me an idea of cost and where to purchase? DID THESE CABLES GO IN ONE END AND OUT THE OTHER? (in the EGR Portal, and out the Head Portal next to the ex man?) Has anyone tried the Snake-Bit? From talking to the owner, and from my own experience, I rather doubt it would negotiate the sharp turns in the GEO's EGR system, and I don't want to order a $30 product (the 21 incher) without hearing any feedback from a GEO person.... What about rifle or pistol brass bristle cleaning brushes -- has anyone used them and gotten them to go through the complete exhaust EGR passage, and through (what I've heard) the more difficult intake passages?

Two days before, I sprayed the exhaust manifold nuts and bolts with WD40 (could have used PB Blaster). Since they came off "like butter" (obaja's phrase), I started by removing them (after undoing the O2 sensor connector), and then I pulled the exhaust manifold away and down, and rested it on the oil filter (it didn't seem like much weight, and I'll be changing the filter anyway this week). I then sprayed the manifold surfaces and gasket with PB Blaster, and brushed away debris. Pay attention to where the different bolt types go, and how the gasket was positioned. I plan on reusing mine because it looked like it was in good shape. I also plan to use high-temp anti-seize lubricant on the nuts and bolts.

RESULT: THE PASSAGE THROUGH THE HEAD WAS COMPLETELY CLOGGED, and the "U" passage in the Exhaust Manifold itself was mostly clogged. I cleared the "U" passage quickly with a scratch awl, carb cleaner, and then the 1/8" and 3/16" coated galvanized cables. To clear the head: what worked best for me, after trial and error, was simply to use a 3/8" Auger Drill Bit (without the drill), and push and rotate it in the passage by hand. Every other minute I'd have to withdraw it, spray it with carb cleaner, and brush the gunk off. (I didn't like the cables here, because they got too gunky and hard to clean.) It was tedious, but effective, and I could feel when it finally broke through, near the very end of the straight passage. BUT AS ABOVE, I COULD NOT GET THE 1/8" or 3/16" cables to penetrate any further than the straight passage--about 7" long. I THINK THE CURVED PASSAGES BETWEEN THE HEAD AND THE EGR (about 3") MAY STILL BE BLOCKED. ANY SUGGESTIONS? (I still have the ex manifold off, so I can't test, and don't know for sure, but I'll try a can of compressed air in the AM)

I read the following from jwxr7 a ways back (Sep 20, 2006), but didn't really understand what he meant by a 1/8" string, and how this would work if, indeed, the passage is clogged (and I would have to borrow an air compressor):

"When I did mine, I couldn't get anything to clean the area where the passage is curved sharply. So after doing the main part with a drill bit and blowing what I could out with my air compressor. I finished by tying a knot on the end of some 1/8" string, then I pushed the knot in the egr passage near the exhaust. I used my blow gun to blow it thru and out the passage on the intake manifold. It blew thru very easily. After it is out the other side, I tied a seiries of knots in a section of the string that could be pulled back and forth thru the passage by pulling on the ends of the string. This gave me assurance that the passage was clean all the way thru."

WHAT KIND OF STRING WOULD THIS BE, AND WOULDN'T IT ONLY WORK IF THE PASSAGE IS ALREADY AT LEAST PARTIALLY OPEN?

I'll be hanging out waiting for replies. My 1992 Metro is up for smog by March and I'm wondering if I should do this pre-emptively.
I throw an EGR code if I cruise on the freeway at 65 or less. Ironically 70+ cruising doesn't throw any codes at all which is great because this is where I spend all my drive time.

I do have a question. I read that there are some brass tubes in the intake ports that relate to the EGR. True? Do these ever clog?

Dave

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1992 Geo metro, 1.0L 5spd, 511,000miles on original engine & trans
- First time engine work at 456K miles, bad headgasket. Rebuilt head, Felpro gasket installed.
- knuckles/hubs/brakes/13" wheels from a 2000 Metro, running 175 70R13
- New bearings and 1st/2nd synchros at 440.5K miles.
- MPGuino
- Averaging ~ 51MPG these days

JellyBeanDriver Dave,
You inspired me to write a final treatise on the subject...If I don't do it now, I know I'll never get around to doing it! I hope this helps you!
You asked about brass tubes in the intake ports...I believe your 92 is just like my 93, and they are not an issue for us. See the references I quoted below....
EGR doesn't operate at WOT, so maybe that is why you don't have a problem at 70+....
I don't remember what precisely trips an EGR code, but if you have 356K miles on a 92 and have never cleared out the passage in the head, I would wager it is clogged. BTW, where are you in SoCal?
I would attend to this now so you don't have to pay an extra $50 for a late smog, and you are not pressured for time. I did end up with a couple of Pandora's Box issues, including one more I didn't mention below--a wire that sends the engine temp to the gauge broke off during my manhandling of the huge number of wires around the EGR valve... Pretend your smog is due in Feb.! Remember, you will get an instant fail if the Check Engine light comes on during the test....
YEAH! EUREKA! We have liftoff! I got the passages completely cleared! Just when I was nearing the end of my patience threshold.... Even thoughts of turning it in to the State of California for $1000 came to mind....

TO SUMMARIZE:
* Diagnostic tests of all the EGR components, Stall & Live Test understanding, and the greatest EGR system map were from jtgh in the suzuki-forums (sidekick forum). From his thread titled "major EGR update" (http://www.kick-fix.com/EGR-choice.html) you can find his old EGR treatise, which I also found helpful (http://www.kick-fix.com/EGR.html). That it is for a 1.6L engine is irrelevant--the Gen 1 - 8 valve engines use the same EGR valve, and other EGR components as the 1 L Geo Metro. Figure 1 - EGR System, titled "EGR Functions 1989-1998" was INDISPENSIBLE in my understanding of the system.
* Oconice's pics from teamswift were of help in the beginning.
* BillP's note about not using the drill was of great help--I ended up only using my bare hands--they had the best grip on the cables and auger drill bit, and enabled me to push the cables up further than I could when I tried the drill.
* There were many who suggested pulling away the exhaust manifold, right off the bat, and there were just as many who said to just try cleaning it from the EGR portals. From my experience, I know that I could not have cleared out that portal in the head from the EGR portal, or at least that it would have taken hours and hours -- mine had never been cleared out, and with 117K on it, and it eating oil, the passage was densely clogged, including the "U" passage in the exhaust manifold itself. The easily obtainable 3/8" Auger Drill Bit (about 7" long), twisted and pushed by hand into the head's straight passage, cleaned it out quite nicely and quickly (+ sprays of carb cleaner and Seafoam Deep Creep (Autozone)). I had to pull the auger bit out every minute or so to clean it with a tooth brush and Seafoam. The galvanized 1/8" cable worked well for cleaning out the "U" passage (+sprays). Even if a cable from the EGR portal could have made it that far, all that gook would have fallen down into the exhaust manifold, and then into the cat. Since I just put in a new cat, and their price has doubled this year, I wasn't going to risk that...
* On the con side of the "off the bat" pulling away the manifold, mwebb reminded me that it could be opening up a Pandora's Box, and in my case it was... It created an exhaust leak at the junction between the manifold and pipe, and I'll need a new exhaust pipe seal and gasket, and two flange bolts (probably a dealer part). Mine were so rusted they'll need to be replaced.
******CORRECTION: IT TURNS OUT I DID NOT NEED TO REPLACE THE EXHAUST GASKET AND FLANGE BOLTS BETWEEN THE PIPE AND MANIFOLD! -- the leak was from a bad weld on the new cat I had had someone install a month ago--the exhaust smoke just crept up the pipe & appeared to come from the gasket area. But do be gentle when pulling the ex. man. away from the head, and rest it on something like a rubber mat or towel on the ground... *********
I was able to reuse the head to manifold gasket though, after thoroughly cleaning it with Seafoam, and spraying with PB Blaster. I cleaned all the nuts and bolts, and then applied Hi-Temp Antisieze Lubricant. Supposed to torque them to 17 lbs, but my torque wrench doesn't go down that low. Tighten them gradually, in several steps, going from the center out each time... Is there even a torque wrench in existence that could be used on the lower two nuts? I couldn't even get a ratchet wrench on it--had to use a box end.
* After clearing out the straight head passage from the exhaust manifold side with the auger drill bit, I decided to try a thin cable I had with a small round ball on the end (about 3/16" diameter ball--maybe a parking brake cable?). Using my hands only, I pushed it in the head passage, twisted & pushed more, and finally broke through the first bend or two, getting it in a couple of extra inches--to maybe 9 " total. Coming in from the EGR portal, I also was able to get past the 3" bend, and got it in about a total of 5". Knowing that the total passage is 11", I knew I had broken through. But it took a speedometer cable to actually get in one end and out the other. Once I got totally through, I pulled it back & forth like a saw, then repeatedly pulled it out, cleaned it off on blue paper shop towels, and stuck it in a Seafoam gas treatment bottle, swirled it around, and then immediately stuck it back in & sawed. I repeated this until the speedo cable no longer had black gook on it--about 10 passes. Periodically I sprayed Seafoam Deep Creep spray in the EGR portal, and alternated that with carb cleaner (a short can, or I could maneuver a large Gumout can because theirs doesn't have to be precisely upright, and their red nozzle is strong and can be bent, without falling out). The carb spray would spurt out the head portal. BTW, I do not think the Snake Bit flexible drill bit would have negotiated the sharp turns in the GEO's EGR passages--its 3/16" diameter and stiff bit at the end probably would stop at the first 90 degree turn...IMHO...(if only they made it thinner...it seems like a great idea!)
* For the intake side, the cable with the ball on it helped me get in an extra inch or so, to about 7" total. (Remember, I had good vacuum at this portal from the beginning, when I ran the engine with the EGR valve off, so it probably wasn't clogged up). I then used the speedo cable, and repeatedly soaked it, and pushed and rotated it in the passage, as above. I didn't get much more gook than I had gotten previously by using short and long Qtips dipped in Seafoam, after the initial clean with a scratch awl. Be careful with the Qtips though--you don't want pieces breaking off--so use them only a brief amount of time, and replace frequently. I used about 40 of them! They also worked great at the beginning of the EGR exhaust portal because there is some kind of obstruction inside, and they squeezed right through it--I used two Qtips at a time, dipped in Seafoam.
* With the exhaust manifold back on, I covered a large black rubber vacuum cap with several rounds of electrical tape, and squeezed it on to the intake EGR portal, while someone else started the car. (Duct tape would work too, but don't leave on for long, and even then you'll have to clean off the sticky residue). Fairly loud exhaust noise & fumes emanated from the exhaust EGR portal, so I knew it was finally clear (it used to only emit subtle smoke rings). I then increased the RPMs a lot, removed the intake plug, and quickly sprayed Seafoam Deep Creep into the portal, from a prepositioned can. The car alternately races and dies down, several times. I wanted to do this to clear out as much gunk as possible from the intake portal before putting the (thoroughly cleaned) EGR valve back on. The revving somehow kicked off a vehicle speed sensor code on the computer...
* I put the EGR valve back on, with a new 99 cent felpro gasket, and took off the neg battery cable, then put it back on, so as to clear any computer codes. Remember, when you think all is dandy, to check for any codes by putting the spare fuse into the diagnostic bay in the fuse box by the driver's left leg, with the key OFF, then turning it ON, and looking for the flashing light pattern of the Check Engine light.... BTW, the EGR valve still held a vacuum--just wanted to check....
* The car purrrrrred like a kitten, and started to stall when I applied 10" vacuum to the EGR valve--CHECK!. When warmed up, with RPMS increased, I could see the valve move at the underside of the mushroom--CHECK!
*Smog check tomorrow. If all is well, you won't hear from me again on this topic.... Remember to do regular Seafoam maintenance on these cars in the future, to keep those passages clean (see a post on this in geometroforum)!
For those Calif. folks--I always do an offline (MAKE SURE THEY DON'T CONNECT WITH SACTO!!) smog test at a cheap place ($16.75) before going to the Test Only station. If you fail several times online you will be labeled a gross polluter and go through bureaucratic hell....And, by the way, they now charge $50 (they've got to pay for their pensions somehow..) to get an extension for smog, and after 60 days you can't drive the car without going to them, waiting for 6 hrs in line, just to get a one day pass! That is unless you had the foresight to make an appt. 2-3 weeks in advance!
Good Luck Dave!

TIP FOR THE DAY: I love the Harbor Freight Mini Flashlight with 8 LEDs (Item 95750). It is heavy duty metal and rubber, with 6 sided ends so it doesn't roll. It worked perfectly for the EGR--I could place it under a rubber cable by the fire wall and direct it straight on the EGR & the portals.
I also love their headlight LED light--but I had to put a layer of Molefoam on it so it would feel comfortable on my forehead. It is GREAT having light everywhere you turn! Put a little adhesive under the switch tab or it will fall off, and be careful to set the thing where it wont get tossled about and accidentally turned on....

I'm in Ventura.
Actually my EGR passage isn't completely clogged - the engine will almost stall if I actuate the valve manually and as far as I remember, it's always been that way - almost stall but won't.
From the service manual it says that the engine will look for EGR operation by monitoring the manifold vacuum (map sensor). Maybe it doesn't above a certain RPM. I'm definitely not WOT at 75-80MPH. Throttle is barely cracked at 75 on the flats.

Yeah, I've got time. With works being nuts I really have to unwind on the weekends though. The manifold bolts don't look that great either - I'm sure I'll have issues with broken bolts/studs to deal with too. Simple projects rarely end up that way for me .

Good to know on the brass tubes. I'm willing to do the roto-rooter on the passage in the head from the exhaust to EGR valve, but don't want to go doing anything deeper.

I used to have a 200SX that had continual EGR problems once I started trying to open up passages. Seems after that I kept getting larger pieces breaking off and moving and blocking the EGR valve orifice.

_________________
1992 Geo metro, 1.0L 5spd, 511,000miles on original engine & trans
- First time engine work at 456K miles, bad headgasket. Rebuilt head, Felpro gasket installed.
- knuckles/hubs/brakes/13" wheels from a 2000 Metro, running 175 70R13
- New bearings and 1st/2nd synchros at 440.5K miles.
- MPGuino
- Averaging ~ 51MPG these days