TeamSwift

Now I just picked up a new (to me) 94 metro, and the drivers window has a severe problem, the window doesn't come down but a couple of inches, after peeling the panel and the plastic off of it, and using a flashlight and an inspection mirror, it appears that the regulator frame is bent, and as the window starts to come down the upper wheel/bearing turns sideways and tries to pop out of the track. I can't get it down far enough to pull the window out of the regulator to work on it, any ideas???

If the old regulator is stuck in the upper postion. You should be able to turn on the crank and push down on the glass at the same time. The other thing would be to just unbolt the old regulator and the take the screws out of the glass. then just bend the old regulator untill it can come out.

I really appreciate you posting this tip, it really helped me get my regulator out to install a new window. But my question is, what size are the screws holding the fixed horizontal track. My car did not have them, so I need to replace them.

Thank You
Ray G

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1993 Suzuki Swift 1.3L GA
http://www.pctek4you.webs.com

I ended up having to reach up inside the door with a pair of ignition pliers and tweak the regulator arm. while doing that have one person pushdown on the glass and crank down. took quite a while as there isn't much space, but once I got the window down.....10 minutes to install the new one.....ahhhh window up and down...good thing!

Not sure about the fixed horizontal track, but the floating one, attached to the bottom of the window (the one I gave you) uses a phillips screw, standard 6 X 1 thread, about 1.5 cm long. Either the hardware store will have them, or I probably have a pair lying around here. Most of the people who 'hang out' with me end up saving a lot of money.
Let me know if you need some help and maybe we can help each other..."hang out", if you will. Like most here, my time is tight, but am always willing to help someone in need, if they are sincere.

_________________
DIY Broken Bolt Removal: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=41042
DIY Clutch Adjustment: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48281
DIY Wheel Bearings: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29003
DIY Shocks: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=45483
DIY Wheel Align: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42479
Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!

Thank you so much Phil for all you have done, you are a great guy. I really really appreciate what you have done for me.
Hope we can get together this weekend.

Ray G

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1993 Suzuki Swift 1.3L GA
http://www.pctek4you.webs.com

Is this any different on models with power windows?

Once upon a time (actually 1991) there was a happy little Metro. It was happy because it was brand new and it's windows went up and down smoothly and easily.
But as the years went by the 2 rubber strips (that the glass slides in) got dirty and the window became harder to operate. But the Metro's owner was a mighty man with bountiful ignorance and he determined to crank that window! And he cranked and cranked and cranked

One day he was bitching about the window and his brother (the village idiot) said "hey dude like i can totally fix that" so they took the door cover off and unscrewed the regulator and lost the bolts. So they went over to their Massey Fergusson tractor and took out some bolts. These were longer but the door has a big hollow space so in they went. And the Owner had a few more beers and drove home.

But the window was worse than ever because the longer bolts were rubbing on parts in door. So the mighty ignorant man cranked until the plastic handle broke off

Then he got pliers and cranked some more But after awhile the pliers chewed the ribs off the regulator shaft! "Cheap crap" he said. Weary of the window cranking and the oil leaking and the dents and the missing switch buttons ... he said I shalt sell you bitch

And a man from far away (where they understood the secrets of lubrication and maintenance) bought the sad abused Metro and replaced the horribly bent regulator, lubricated the tracks, got the right length of bolts, and put the glass INTO the rear track! And the Metro lived happily ever after -- doing over 50mpg.

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looking for:
the time i mispent in my youth

daily driver: red 1991 Metro 3cyl 5sp, roof rack, 8 degree advance,
got 61 mpg combined on 14" tires but i prefer 12"

completed frame up restoration: black 1994 Swift GT 5sp -- like new ! 45mpg

And that, ladies and gentlemen is how a man from far away (where they understood the secrets of lubrication and maintenance) fixed his window...

...and got this thread _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ by Tommy!

_________________
DIY Broken Bolt Removal: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=41042
DIY Clutch Adjustment: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48281
DIY Wheel Bearings: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29003
DIY Shocks: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=45483
DIY Wheel Align: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42479
Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!

I just did the window regulators on my car for the second time now, and I can tell you that proper lubrication makes a big deal. Once the regulator is out of the door, take some brake cleaner and blast out all the old pasty gunk out of the rollers, pivot points and the track. I then squirt some oil deep inside the pivots, and follow up with grease for everything else. Another thing that can make a difference is the condition of the window seals. I had one seal that for some reason was folded over itself. This lead to the condition of it not sealing and allowing water into the door, as well as dragging on the window and keeping it from going up straight.

Folded window seal causing problems:


Window regulator getting serviced

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i used white Lithium grease on the metal parts and Silicone spray on the window tracks. Very smooth.

_________________
looking for:
the time i mispent in my youth

daily driver: red 1991 Metro 3cyl 5sp, roof rack, 8 degree advance,
got 61 mpg combined on 14" tires but i prefer 12"

completed frame up restoration: black 1994 Swift GT 5sp -- like new ! 45mpg

Well I just got done putting a new clutch in my 94 metro that was gifted to us for my 15 yo daughter to learn to drive. They thought the tranny was bad but i new the lady had misdiagnosed the problem. anyway, now I need to tackle the window issue. The passenger side is rolled up and siliconed shut so i will start with the driver side. The window not only wobbles but the gears are seriously stripped. I am leaning toward an E-bay regulator so I am trying to find out what models are compatible with a 94 2 door. There seems to be a lot of 4 dr stuff and covert as well as the 95 - newer. Also, the door itself seems to have some hinge issues and you have to lift it to latch. I will experiment with adjustments and shimming there.
So if any one is familiar with cross referencing regulator I could really use some input or suggestions,
Thanks!

Any MK2 or MK3 2 door regulator will work for sure. I'm not sure about 4 door parts, as I'm sure they may be some difference due to the different size of the glass.

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I have a Geo Metro and I have read this forum over and I see that you've stated the window regulator is compatible to a couple of different models. I found the Suzuki Swift regulator but it doesnt state if its for the 2dr or 4dr. And it was stated in one of the replies that they werent the same because of the size. It list the different models it will fit but I dont know exactly which model your refering to. Also, you stated the MK2/3 would work but I can not for the life of me find that car, I know its sad, lol.

MK2 refers to vehicles from the 1989 - 1991 model year
MK3 refers to vehicles from the 1992 - 1994 model year

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This Topic kicks ass! I bought this car with the windows up and drove it home. Naturally I got hot on the way home being summer. I rolled the window down. there was an odd 'clunk' and from then on I could not put my window up all the way.

I took off my door panel, and removed the regulator, almost busting my finger when the motor came off, flinging the mounting bracket attached to the spring. (they're automatic). The one semi-independent arm, that attaches to the regulator track on the bottom (and is also dependent on the horizontal track), was bent badly. My guess is the previous owner tried to jam his window down . Fortunately I reshaped it. Not 100%straight, but almost.

I had another regulator, but this was from a crank window, so it could not be used. The both had that bulged out horizontal track, so naturally I assumed it was normal. I put it all back together and same problem. But it makes sense no that I realize the horizontal track isn't proper. It makes sense as to why the bottom arm attached to that arm doesn't move along the tracks, which makes sense as to why the window jumps to the front!

I just want to say thanks for helping me out. I appreciate it a lot

Thanks for all the hepfull info guys.

For some reason the photos in dbritt's post on the previous page, welding on Floggolf's sugestion, are not visable to me! Is it just my pc or have they been removed? Could somone please put these pics up again?.

Thank you

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INCREASE THE PEACE

I live in Los Angeles, CA, USA and have a '94 Geo Metro 2 Door Hatchback. My driver's side door window regulator is damaged beyond the repairs mentioned in this topic. Does anyone know where I can get a new (not used) OEM or aftermarket regulator, besides going through the GM dealership? I can't find anything online and the ones at the junkyard will be a junked too. Thanks.

call Suzuki and ask for a discount. i paid 80 two yrs ago. another dealer said 115.

_________________
looking for:
the time i mispent in my youth

daily driver: red 1991 Metro 3cyl 5sp, roof rack, 8 degree advance,
got 61 mpg combined on 14" tires but i prefer 12"

completed frame up restoration: black 1994 Swift GT 5sp -- like new ! 45mpg

Did anyone else have any trouble undoing the screws that hold the glass in the regulator? There so tight they seem impossible to undo

You bring up a good point, and experience is the best teacher.

There are several ways to loosen them.
One is to grab them with a pair of Vise Grips, and give a quick turn to loosen them; then you can use a regular Phillips screwdriver. Sometimes you can't get a good grip, but if you can get even an angled grip, they'll break free.

Another way is to grab this tool
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=93481
for $5.99

and give it a good whack (be careful not to break your glass-maybe have an assistant hold the backside) or just use the tool by hand.
Most of the time, if you're strong enough, you can use the tool without a hammer.
Whether you use this tool or not, it's worth having in your 'arsenal' of tricks.


If you strip out the head of the bolt; game over. Then they're REALLY a pain to pull out.

Start with a good Phillips bit, like in that impact set above. Otherwise, it's a formula for disaster.


Good question, though and I'm curious to know if anyone has a better way to pull those screws.....

_________________
DIY Broken Bolt Removal: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=41042
DIY Clutch Adjustment: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48281
DIY Wheel Bearings: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29003
DIY Shocks: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=45483
DIY Wheel Align: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42479
Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!

When I took apart my door to work on the regulator I found these in the bottom of the door, any idea what they are and where they go

Those are part of the 'rod assembly' which keeps the door from opening too far, not the window regulator, and they're easy to put back. You'll have to pull that part out of the door from the inside, put it together, and snake it back correctly.

_________________
DIY Broken Bolt Removal: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=41042
DIY Clutch Adjustment: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48281
DIY Wheel Bearings: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29003
DIY Shocks: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=45483
DIY Wheel Align: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42479
Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!

OK, Thanks I did notice that the bolts from that rod assembly were missing and it was loose in the door.
I thank you for your speedy reply, Tomorrow I will put it back together after I pull the regulator out to straiten it.
Looks like the front vertical rail came loose and the previous owner reefed on the crank and striped it out and bent one of the regulator arms.
There is like a tube of grease in the horizontal rails red and blue so he must have had trouble before.
When I put it back together I will use white lithium grease or fluid Film

Go to Peavy Mart, and in the oil section, where the sell the Amsoil stuff, get some Amsoil 'Chain lube'. It dries into a waxy style of coating, very good for heavy loads, and places you don't want dirt to stick.

It's what I use now to lube the door assemblies. No more sqeaking when it's very cold outside.

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My cars:

J. McBean: '98 Suzuki Swift 1.3L 16v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk5" Made in Canada
The Mini Rattler: '94 Suzuki Swift .993L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk3" Made in Canada *The Winter Beater*
B. Berry: '90 Chevrolet Turbo Sprint 1.0L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk2" Made in Japan

I got 18MPG in a 3cyl with a 5 speed manual 4dr, '93 Metro!