TeamSwift

What is a Group A racing cam?

group A:
duration (not.050): ex- 256, in- 264
valve lift (mm): ex 8.85, in- 8.85
ex.op: 54, ex.cl: 22, in.op: 28, in.cl: 56

Shouldn't be a problem. US$275/exchange.

Great. And how can I be sure, that cams will have that numbers?

I am from Europe, so if i get them from you, i have to first buy here stock ones and send it to you?

Lander

Give me a proper Duration number(at .050" lift), and I can give you a guarantee.
Yes, it works best if you send me cams first,otherwise I have to charge a core charge($$).

...................suprf1y........thats remind me something..............hehe

Can you explain it for me please?

...............i have the same prob as u mate.............i am looking to buy stock cams, to send them to suprf1y.........but i cant find anywhere at the moment.

by the way...........which part of Europe r u from?

Czech republic, it is middle of Europe.

It is possible to change duration of stock cams to group A cams?

Any other mods I need to do to install that cams?

Lander

How much meat are we going to loose off the base circle? For us guys with shims this may cause some problems.

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Malcolm

'95 Metro 1.0 / 5 spd
165,000 miles

I'm assuming that you have a 3cyl. All of the grinds are 'mild' enough that the hydraulic lifter takes up the lash, and no shims are required. All the listed cams are useable out of the box. I'm working now on a few race profiles that will be borderline with the stock lifters, as well as a solid lifter race cam, which will require shimming for adjustment.

i guess group A cam´s can work with the stock lifters...
what do you ppl think?

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yeah they ll work fine with the stock lifters..........as the lift are 8.85mm for both inlet and exhaust. for lifts 9mm or higher you need new lifters. if i am wrong pls correct me.

I guess the only other thing would be, what's the computer going to think about it? Do you have any of these cams running yet?

I've been fooling around with Desktop Dyno trying to get the 1.0 put in. So far those cam numbers look they're adding almost 20 HP!

Who knows the valve sizes on these things?

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Malcolm

'95 Metro 1.0 / 5 spd
165,000 miles

So you do not build up the cam lobes first, before re-profiling?

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Don't ask me, I don't know anything. And just because I'm a senior member, it does not mean I have as many wrinkles as ellpee. 1500+ posts and still I haven't got a clue.

Yes there are some out there and they are working fine with the stock computer.
The valve sizes are 35mm Int. 28mm Exh.

No, the lobes aren't built up before grinding, there is no need to, and you don't want to to that unless it is absolutly neccesary.

Thanks suprf1y,
That sounds good. What kind of 'seat of the pants' difference does it make? It's sounding like something I'd like to try. That is, unless I find a G13 in the near future.

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Malcolm

'95 Metro 1.0 / 5 spd
165,000 miles

Here's the numbers I'm getting in Desktop Dyno with the new cam

Stock exhaust
70 hp @ 6500
63 ft lbs @ 5000

With header
86 hp @ 6500
74 ft lbs @ 5000

Sound close?

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Malcolm

'95 Metro 1.0 / 5 spd
165,000 miles

Due to requests, I've opened up a PayPal account, and you can now use your credit card to buy truckloads of camshafts.
I will be testing the 1.0l 3cyl 'race grind' in the next week, and will have available a .330"(8.4mm) lift/235 [email protected] grind for the GTi. That will be a real high revver!

these cams are sounding great. I have '92 3 banger and i want one of ur cams but do u have another setup except for race? like a street cam is what im after, what kind of hp/ ft lbs am i going to see?

These are the street grinds.

89-up 3cyl.
Lift ________Dur at .050"
.340_______212
.350_______220

I can't give you hp, or torque numbers, because every setup is different.
Please PM me if you are need more info.

what important mods or parts would need to be put on a metro when using one of these cams?

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1996 Geo Metro - 3 cylinder - 1.0L

Nothing, just throw it right on.

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Any thing you can do to get more air in and out of your motor will increase the power. hi flow air filter (K&N), colder air, and free flow exhaust. all will work better with a bigger cam. The trade off is with longer duration you will lose bottom end torque. If you have an automatic this is harder to live with. The motor is just an air pump- more air + more fuel will make more power - up to a point!
One other thing “motors do not know what is written on the valve cover”. You can hotrod anything!

Both answers were right. No mods are required for the installation of one of my 3cyl. cams.
Larry is correct, and the 3cyl. is particularly sensitive to the type of mods he suggested. First and foremost, you should be looking at a free flowing exhaust, at least 1 7/8" or 2". The stock exhaust is VERY restrictive. After that, you will see much better results from a cam change. I always recomend that people do the exhaust first, before the cam, or at least be aware of the potential results first.