TeamSwift

The exit on the second chicane is due to my dumbass self who didn't look at the fuel filter or tank for rust .
Yes...i did not finish climb 3 and 4 because i had no more fuel reaching my carbs.
It's lack of fuel + the chicane was a very crappy one that left me with 2000 rpm or so in 2nd gear
My car only runs good from 4000 to 8000+ rpm and due to the fact that it's a standard GTI bottom , i don't rev it past 7400 rpm.
@dattman I run the standard gti header heatwraped with straight 45mm (i think )pipe from the oil pan to the back of the car.

I run +6 on the exhaust and +4 on the intake with mike's 222/365 cams.
Fuel was 101 octane advertised ,probably close to 98 or 99cor
The carb setup for this climb was
34 mm choke for more flexibility i use 32.5 chokes
140main
170 air
.6 emulsion tube
225 needle
45 pump jets(too big)

The plugs for this race were ngk bkr5ek who were better than bp6 non resistor plugs i have used previously.

You can hear and see the way it runs in the first corners .
I need to use stiffer springs upfront because i lift the inside rear tyre almost always.
Things to buy:
wideband gauge
alu flywheel
4 in 1 extractors
cultus 11.5:1 pistons
oil cooler
bucket seat+harness
Rollcage

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G13B 1.3L 16v 115hp

I still can't believe that you guys get to participate in hillclimb events without a roll cage being mandatory. When you're ready to get a good wideband let me know and I'll hook you up!

Are you sure those cams are best suited for you though? I'd hate having to be on cams that are happy only above 4000rpm. That's like a turbo that's waaay too big for useful bottom end power (yeah, crappy analogy I know).

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~the other Ralph~
Certified Suzuki Owner:
MKIII Swift GTi - The Green Destiny!
2010 Suzuki Jimny - The DD Workhorse!

i meant that the pull hard from 4000 rpm...they are drivable and i don't use the swift for anything other than hillclimbs where i need 5000 to 8000 rpm range except for the last crappy hillclimb with chicanes that were way to tight . It doesn't have an mot since 2007.
What's the price for widebands? I've seen the aem ones for 200$

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G13B 1.3L 16v 115hp

Roger that. The AEM can’t come close to this one I’m talking about, in terms of features. Check out the site www.14point7.com

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~the other Ralph~
Certified Suzuki Owner:
MKIII Swift GTi - The Green Destiny!
2010 Suzuki Jimny - The DD Workhorse!

New custom made underdrive pulley is done.come on little horses ...be free

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G13B 1.3L 16v 115hp

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1dC4IvEdB0c

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iuWZxQyItNg

Custom UD pulley installed

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G13B 1.3L 16v 115hp

Rollcage is fitted .I hope i got it right Thanks for all the photos you guys share on this forum.
What paint colors do you think would work well with the interior?

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G13B 1.3L 16v 115hp

What happened to the bend on the main hoop that tube will of lost a lot of it's strength.

Gloss gray is a good colour, while I like my nice white clean interior it is a bit glarey on really sunny days.

He can install gussets in the bends to add additional strength.

I thought you wouldn't catch that , yes it has a little wrinkle because the idiots who sold the pipe said it was 3mm thick an it was only 2,5
I'll install the reinforcement next year before the start of the season when i'll join the rollbar with the front strut tops.
Not to bad for 350$ worth of rollbar.
Grey..hmm that good , but white is better .
Anyone got different ideas?

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G13B 1.3L 16v 115hp

the car weighs 712 kg without driver so 810 including myself.
Next is gutting the doors , fiberglass hood and hatch ...

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G13B 1.3L 16v 115hp

car is in hibernation , and i bought another mk1 gti

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G13B 1.3L 16v 115hp

This year i rebuilt the engine.
A comp ratio of 11:50 to 1 give or take 0.5 .
Arp rod bolts thanks to honda 208-6001 if i remeber , new bearings and new oil pump.
Piston and rod assembly weight was 800 grams , with + or - 0.5 grams between them.
Hope it doesn't throw a rod or piston or anything.
My goal is 8500-9000 rpm stable engine capable of 10000 rpm If shifting goes wrong
I also got a new batt ytz10s 190cca haven't tested it yet but it only weighs 3kg and somethin, glass was replaced with 2.5 mm lexan and the doors have been completely gutted.
The interior blower is out along with the interior radiator.

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G13B 1.3L 16v 115hp

And something sexy

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G13B 1.3L 16v 115hp

why do You use carburators not injection ?

Because it's much cheaper than getting an aftermarket ecu and getting it tuned, no difference in high rpm hp, it's only low and mid range where injection will make more power and torque and use less fuel doing it.

Yes Dattman, you are right.
I live in East E.U so there aren't many tuners around here. Costs are too big for amateurs like me.
Carbs are easier to tune here because all i need is a wideband and some fuel .I would go to ITB in a second if i could afford getting them tuned right.
Anyway there are differences between carbs and injection int erms of high rpm , I am restricted to a 34mm venturi tube on each cylinder while ITB can run on 40mm or 44mm giving the engine a little more air .The difference in my situation between carbs and ITB is something like 10hp at most or 15hp, but the costs would be hube in terms of $/hp.
Best bang for buck are 40mm carbs and the sound of them on full throttle is a bonus

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G13B 1.3L 16v 115hp

I use in my ITB setup simple piggy-back called "ecumaster" which You can buy new for 150euro and used 75euro.
And if You have wideband with controller You can add afr signal to Your log and tune itb by yourself

Thank you for the advice.
Here are some updates:
-new engine is ok after this hillclimb .
-switched to 5w50 oil but 5w40 should be ok because i get 4bars at idle when hot.
-oil blow-by 500 ml after 2km 9000 rpm shift.
-switched to uniball in the back .Great improvement.
-switched to 34 mm chokes .Great high rpm power.

All in all , beating 1.6 hondas is priceless
Finished 12th overall , 53 cars in total , 1st in the 1400cc class with a 4 second gap between second place.
I got 1:14.045 and best was 1.06 Evo 9 group H 600 hp car.

To do list:
-suspension
-exterior

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G13B 1.3L 16v 115hp

Updates.
Finished stripping out the electrical and installed my own electrical system with just the basics:
alt
starter
f pump
fan
ign
gauges
I'll be using a motorcycle batter ytz10s .Its got 190 cold cranking amps and I can mount it in any position.I cranked it 20 times today and it still spins the engine very good .It only weighs 3kg and it cost me 60 $
Waiting for 175kg/inch springs for the front.
Also tuned the carbs a little bit I love the sound.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CWN_it1g ... e=youtu.be
I'll get to the exhaust part this summer.

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G13B 1.3L 16v 115hp

Very good progress ROV. I admire your do-it-yourself philosophy.

I enjoy every minute and I'm a hands on kinda guy . It's a good way of relaxing from hard week behind the desk plus I have a very small budget due to living in Eastern Europe.

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G13B 1.3L 16v 115hp

This Sunday I thought I should go in an area I am normally scared of: Bodywork.
Got the engine out and now i'm thinking of building an lower brace for the control arms , make a strut brace along with streghtening every weld there is on the front of the car.
My main goal will be to weld and patch-up the front of the car and give it a nice strong frame.
I also installed my new springs which are alot stiffer than my old ones.
The car will get a total makeover , it's time for her to be good looking for the sponsors ,she will lok like a proper mk1 gti built for hillclimbs.
Here is the start-up :

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G13B 1.3L 16v 115hp

Hey ROV, why don't you use a timing guard? It protects againts small debris.

Cheers

Hello,
1.To keep the temp down for the belt(belt stretch at high rpm and high temp)
2.I race only on tarmac so that isn't an issue , if I were to race on gravel i would install a timing guard.
3.Becasue it's easier to change cams or to work on the head of the engine.I really hate removing plastic covers , wires or such .

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G13B 1.3L 16v 115hp