TeamSwift

This car is wicked unmolested so while I hate the radio (and it is malfunctioning too), I'm first trying to determine if there is any chance I could make it listenable. (Sorry for the long post, but I have a lot of decisions to make on which way to go.)

#1 NO BRAINER: SPARE TIRE WOOFER

Which might not be too bad with the (4) 4" OEM speaker layout.

#2 SPEAKER IMPEDANCE: is OEM 4 or 8 ohm?

I have a free set of decent 4 ohm 4's with butyl cloth surrounds. BUT, if I need 8 ohm, nix them.

BIG QUESTION: would the above be good enough for an "entry level" "cheapskate" system that would have decent bass but obviously not head splitting volume?

If the answer is NO, then I would assume the dash speakers are ok, but either the hatch 4's would need an upgrade or install new speakers in doors or quarters. Again cutting up interior panels - especially the special Turbo door panels is not an option. Stock Sprint panels yes I would cut. Again not too worried about cutting metal behind panels.

HATCH UPGRADE:

The speaker panel on the hatch is something like 6x20" which means a pair of 6x9's might just fit. This would require a new panel (would NOT cut OE one) BUT it would require cutting metal in the hatch - but while not happy about that, it is out of sight so OK I guess. HOWEVER, the hatch internal volume may be too small for a pr of 6x9's. NOTE: small volume AND deep base pretty much means acoustic suspension (low Fs) but that is also low sensitivity - but maybe not so bad since OEM radio probably can't drive 6x9's any way.

ADD QUARTER/DOOR SPEAKERS:

Wide open topic. Interested to know what others have done.

BUT RADIO HAS BALANCE CONTROL ISSUE: The BAL slider does not work properly: in all BAL slider positions, the LH speakers (F and R) are full volume. They should be OFF when BAL all the way to the RHS. I can do electronic repair, but I'd need a schematic. I figure the BAL linear pot failed OR an electronic failure in the preamp. I might be able to find a schematic online, but I'd have to remove the radio to get the part number off it.
____________________________

MP3's:

I had a Metro with a cheap after market radio but it had a USB port so I could play my MP3's. I REALLY LIKED THAT. But now I have a Samsung Galaxy 4 and am wondering if I should move the MP3's to the phone memory and use BlueTooth?

Using the stock radio would involve a BlueTooth to FM modulator to get it into the radio.
____________________________

AFTERMARKET RADIO.

I assume it is a Single DIN? Does anyone make harness adapters for the Sprint? (Is the radio and wiring GM or is there Suzuki style connectors for the speaker harness?)

Obviously and aftermarket radio would solve everything.
____________________________

HIDDEN AFTERMARKET:

I suspect there are hidden bluetooth controlled radios on the market which would be controlled from my phone. In this case, I could leave the stock radio installed for OEM look but have hidden unit stashed somewhere with all the bells and whistles.

So I installed a clarion pop out touch screen in my turbo (fitment and Heat are big issues as the factory unit does not go in as deep as after market units or atleast the fancy ones) The stereo store told me they could get an adapter but I'd have to pay for it before hand and it would be non returnable . Ha haha no way in heck am I agreeing to buy something I can't hold in my hand or even see that cannot be returned. My solution was rewiring the entire cars audio system starting at the fuse box. I used 16 guage speaker wire for automotive use and used a paint pen to mark the ends off all wires. I ran my own power wire both to and from the fuse box in place of the factory wires and then tried to use the factory ground. That was not a sufficient ground for my unit so I ran the same type of wire as I used on the power wire but in black ran it to the back side of my glove box mounting bolt after I buffed it and the firewall raw and then covered it in dielectric grease. I know kicker sells sticky insulating tape for plastic panels if you put any sub in a mk1 there is a very fine line between good sound and rattle trap. I was getting the dash to rattle with a pair of kicker 4" rounds. A plus side to upgrading your stereo unit is most decent quality units nowadays allow you to tune the deck for whatever speakers your using regardless of impedance. The real challenge is getting 16 guage wires into the hatch in place of the tiny factory ones which most likely have broken from years of opening and closing (I am still trying to get the wires into the hatch and have been unsuccessful but I did find my wire snake and am yet to try with it). 16 guage is total overkill but leaves allot of room for future improvement. I noticed when I finished my deck installation my instrument panel no longer would dim with the dial it was just on or off. With that I was able to get a pop out touch screen/DVD player, navigation, Bluetooth, usb capability with satellite radio

_________________
When I get that look in my eye its best not to ask questions 0.o
1978 Chevy monza 2+2, 74 step side Chevy, firebird,firebird,fake 91 firehawk in the making,trans am(dd),other trans am, n/a mk1 sprint, and my baby 1987 Chevy sprint turbo in red. How many run right now? Just the n/a sprint. It's not a collection it's my retirement plan.

I think I might go this way myself, if I know what was out there it would make the decision easier. But a stock unit in the dash and then a totally separate bluetooth system seems like a good idea. I haven't listened to terrestrial radio in ten years.

_________________
91 Pontiac Firefly Turbo
10 Suzuki Kizashi


Alcohol, Tobacco, and Firearms
Should be the name of a convenience store, not a government agency

87paperchuckerTurbo: What model Clarion, was it shallow enough?

Yeah, I actually like a flash drive more since cell phone battery is not involved (of course should have a charging cell nest in the car anyway.)

Regarding hatch and door wiring: Since it is flex, I'd use the silicone "noodle wire" used by the RC and Robotics crowd. The stuff is crazy flexible and the strand count is sick - something like 1440 strands or 12ga.

I put 4" Cove's in my Metro and while they had great travel, too much bass was sent to them so I'm thinking for any 4", there should be a hi-pass Xover used to save amp power.

Would (4) 4's and a sub do the job sonically?

Stock radio/speaker impedance? 4 or 8 ohms?

Anyone do a 12 or 13" spare tire sub? Most I've seen only go down to 14in.

Stock impedance 4 ohms. I just walked into my garage and dug out the stock speakers.

Clarion model: nz409

Nope it sticks out a half inch though I have thought up a few solutions for this it comes down to fiberglass or heat gun either way my dash is gonna come out.

I'll look into the noodle wire ironic that I've never heard of it as I was on a robotics team at one point .

I've just been using the same 16 guage speaker wire from outrageous audio since before I could drive the cars I worked on. I think it runs me like .30 a foot and I bought about 120 feet of it back in the day. I've used it in door speakers and 10" subs in the back of my firechicken and after two years they're holding up beautifully. Comes with a nice corrosion resistant coating on the strands so even in a hatch that always leaks I'm never building resistance.

I just put a jvc in my n/a sprint most of the time was spent ripping out the previous owners shotty wiring job in the end I hate that it doesn't have a USB port but hey can't complain when it's all free. The jvc fits perfect no depth issue. I bought a portable charger because he also shorted out the cig lighter and blower motor speed control that's tomorrow's headache.

_________________
When I get that look in my eye its best not to ask questions 0.o
1978 Chevy monza 2+2, 74 step side Chevy, firebird,firebird,fake 91 firehawk in the making,trans am(dd),other trans am, n/a mk1 sprint, and my baby 1987 Chevy sprint turbo in red. How many run right now? Just the n/a sprint. It's not a collection it's my retirement plan.